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View Full Version : Didnt know where to post- starter box



-=ADA$=-
04-12-2004, 03:30 PM
My problem is with starter box so i didnt know where to post it, so the problem is the box has trouble turning over my 8-port, its broken in, and not so tight, and i wouldnt care too much if not the fact im planning on getting P5 ( which wont have pull start, and will be blody tight), i dunno what to do to make a cheap change, to make it lets say flawless, it has 2 550 belt drive, and i use 12V battery to power it, i dont know if i set up the belts so theyr to tight, and it is the issue, or if the motors are too weak, would would be cheap but with most torque alternative motor??
Thanks Adam

trw
04-12-2004, 03:39 PM
this would do much better in the nitro board

TC3Racer
04-12-2004, 04:39 PM
Naw this is general discussion thats fine to post here.

ok exactly what is happening to the box when it wont turn the engine over? is it not producing enough power to start it or is it just konking out completely? Make sure your 12V gel cell is charged all the way and everything else is good. I have a Picco G1 in my Storm and an OFNA box with the 750 motor. It turns it over just fine and compression is really tough. 2 550's should be powerful enough but check everything out and let me know exactly how it is not turning the engine over and i'll see if i can help ya from there. thanks.

-=ADA$=-
04-12-2004, 05:06 PM
its like it doesnt have enaugh power, when engine is warm and not so tight it turns it over without a hassle, but when cold its a pain i have to use pull start first. And even when battery is fully charged it happens. Its the GS box so maybe it uses some weak motors or probably i assembled it wrong way. Thanks
And BTW my father works in company TRW :D

TC3Racer
04-12-2004, 05:48 PM
hmmm... thats funny. i guess those motors just dont have the power to turn the engine over. Theres really nothing you can do to fix that either. When you start it are you allowing the starter wheel to get to full speed and then touch the flywheel to it? If your just putting the buggy on the box and pushing down so the box doesn't have the power to spool up before turning over the engine that could be a factor too.

I guess your only option would be to go with a more powerful starter box. it shouldn't be too expensive since you already have the gel cell. If thats the case tho you should definitely go with a box that has a 750 sized motor. when it comes to .21 race engines thats the only thing that'll turn it over.

-=ADA$=-
04-12-2004, 05:53 PM
and do you think its possible to fit in TWO 750 motors, instead of 550?? i think it would solve the problem the only thing is if they fit, and if i can use them. Thanks alot TC3

TC3Racer
04-12-2004, 06:15 PM
Yea i thought of that idea when i was thinking about it too.

No two 750's will not work. they are HUGE! haha. the starter wheel is attached right on the motor and the actual motor is about the same size as a pop can.

one 750 will be perfectly fine. if you find a way to cram 2 750's in there let me know. haha. your gonna need a wagon to carry your box around because its so heavy tho. haha.

rocknbil
04-13-2004, 01:40 AM
This comes up again and again, there are TWO motors in the dual boxes and that adds up to as much as or more torque than a single 750. I have BOTH of those boxes and the OFNA with the 750 just sits because the rear wheel rubs against it on the GT.

Adam are you SURE the starter box wheel is not hitting your chassis, even just a little? It doesn't take much to stall it - if you have skidmarks on your chassis by the flywheel hole, try adjusting your pegs for a perfect fit.

A second advantage of the dualies - if the motors are beginning to wear, you can put a couple stock mods in it to bring it back to life - check out this article (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_starterbox.asp).

Also the cold engine start is something you can solve in one of two ways, hit the engine with a HOT hair dryer or low setting on a heat gun. Some racers loosen the glow plug enough to get it started then tigten it down, but personally I wouldn't do this.

How old is your battery, is it a gel cell?

Dino451
04-13-2004, 02:40 AM
use the blow dryer thing then loosen the plug. if your fast enough tighten it down, but you only loosen it a little.

-=ADA$=-
04-13-2004, 03:14 AM
the wheel is not touching the chassis, cause when its hot and i throw it on the box very quickly( even not looking at it) it starts, and yea its a gel cell about 2-3 months old, maybe im not charging it enaugh ( dont have gell cell charger) when my friend charged it for me it was about 13V how much should be?? now after couple of starts its about 12,3V.
Thanks for help

rocknbil
04-13-2004, 11:21 AM
Yeah you should be good. A float charger is what I use, it allows you to just leave it plugged in all the time without risk of overcharging. You can find them on eBay or wherever you finve RV accessories, they're about $15 - $30. Is this a .21 engine?

I'd go with the hair dryer/heat gun and like they say here (http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/10nitro.asp), (even thoughthat's a tight TDC issue,) and keeping the box in tip-top shape, unless you want to try the 750 box - personally I don't see that big of a difference but a lot of people argue that. *shrug*

-=ADA$=-
04-13-2004, 03:28 PM
yea its .21 ( but not the greatest one, and thats why im affraid of- im planning on getting P5 and it will probably be much worst than this) and i usually cant use hair dryer, cause im in place where is no electricity, but ill try to solder other cables in place of some i have there ( in hope to have better performance). Ill check what can i do, and if anything else fails, il try getting other, maybe hotter motors

Oh and most important: Thanks!!