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XXXSRaycer
07-20-2004, 02:55 PM
Ok,

I dont have much cash at all all I have is $10 and I can't get to the LHS for another week and I just got a new engine off of tower and now I'm jumping my truck off houmongus ramps and stuff like that and it keeps bottoming out and I need some cheap shock limiters and I just ran out of fuel line when I got my new engine and being the stupid 13 yaer old I am I threw out the old line.....So if you have anything that i mgiht be able to gat my hands on around the house please let me noe. I have a Nitro MT and the chassis is really scratched up and I dont feel like having to wait until I got $35 for another chassis anytime soon.Thanx to anyone who can help.

-JimmE

KTRTS
07-20-2004, 03:00 PM
Can you raisethe ride height? NOt the best way to fix it, but it would do temporarily.

XXXSRaycer
07-20-2004, 03:06 PM
yea its jacked all the way to the top I can't make the shocks in a more upright position.

-JimmE

SteveK
07-20-2004, 09:39 PM
Head down to a hardware store and see if they have any small rubber o-rings or spacers (Plastic, not metal). You can slip those on the bottom to limit the up-travel, and the o-rings will give a cushioned stop.

You should know that bottoming out the chassis on the ground is actually better than letting the suspension bottom out first. If the shocks bottom out before the chassis, the suspension is under a lot of stress and parts can break. You could try putting some brass or sheet metal on the bottom of the chassis as a 'wear strip', so the chassis and screws don't get damaged.

highroller
07-21-2004, 03:12 AM
The big problem for chassis bottoming out is the shock springs or oil is too light. All you are accomplishing placing spacers in shocks is lowering the chassis and shortening the shock stroke. The normal test is to drop the vehicle from about a height of 2-3 ft the suspension arms should be parallel to the chassis or no more than 1/4 inch anymore than that means the suspension is too soft. Even at rest when you press down on chassis it should spring back to just about normal.

Shock limiters spacers are used to limit the stock travel on smooth surfaces when vehicle won't benefit from full travel or for lowering the overal chassis height.

SteveK
07-21-2004, 08:59 AM
I just noticed something in XXXSRaycer's second post: He wants to make the shocks more upright. That will make the suspension even softer. Definitely tune the oil and springs to help stiffen things up.

rocknbil
07-21-2004, 12:34 PM
He's already said he can't afford anything, so . . . .


XXXray: if you're slamming it in that hard, any hard spacers you come up with will very likely transfer the force of the landing directly up the shock into the shock mount on the tower and break something.

If you can't get stiffer springs, your best bet was as you said, slipping about 1/4" - 1/2" lengths of fuel tubing on the bottom of the shock shafts. This is not a good idea for racing, but will help your airborne acrobatics. These should reduce the travel but give enough on a landing to prevent breaking anything. Also if it DOES slam too hard, the worst that could happen is the tubing will split.

Does your family have a fish tank, and scraps of air lines for it? The plastic is usually too stiff but it's an idea. How about your garage, do your parents have any car parts around? You **might** be able to find some old engine vaccum pressure hoses or windshield washer hoses to do the trick. What you're looking for is the smallest soft tubing you can find to cut into 1/4" - 1/2" lengths and slip on the shock shafts.

EDIT: BTW if you can't get to the LHS, try the local hardware store, they sometimes have silicone tubing that is almost identical to our fuel lines and should cost you maybe 50 cents for a foot or so.

SteveK
07-21-2004, 01:40 PM
A wear plate on the bottom of the chassis won't be expensive at all: You can find thin sheetmetal or brass in hardware stores for a few bucks. Just trace the bottom of the chassis onto a piece of paper, and then add maybe a half-inch all around. Fold it up 90 degrees along the edges and cut away where you need to for clearance.

For attaching it, you can use a couple of methods. Easiest would be to drill some holes through it and then use some button-head screws to attach it to the chassis. You could also use some blocks of plastic, like servo posts, and and use screws to attach the turned-up edges to them on the sides of the chassis.

When the pattern is all set, cut out the thin sheetmetal with some tin snips, or even an old pair of heavy-duty scissors, possibly even a utility knife. Do the bending and drilling, and bolt it on. It won't prevent broken parts, but it will keep the bottom of the chassis from getting all gouged up.

Tell your parents this could help extend the life of your chassis and save you $35+ for a while: They might kick you some cash for the tubing/o-rings and sheetmetal. A good time to bring this up is after you've cleaned your room and done the dishes and mowed the lawn.

Cain
07-21-2004, 01:49 PM
Definitely different oil and springs. You may notice also that when you change these things your vehicle may jump farther and higher.

Just remember thought that changing one thing for jumping affects other aspects of the vehicle. I got too happy on not bottoming out off of monster jumps with my Academy SB buggy and when going around the track I was a pretty good pogo stick.