View Full Version : Thunde tiger ' s new 4wd sedan .

07-11-2000, 10:38 PM
Can somebody give a comment on this car ?
How is it compare to others ?

07-12-2000, 12:13 AM
StephenB did the track test for us , so he ' s the best to offer advice on the car . I can tell you that he was pretty happy with the car . What it comes down to most often is which is easiest to get replacement parts . It doesn ' t matter what car you get if you have to wait for a week to get it back on the track when it ' s broken .

07-12-2000, 12:35 AM
I agree with steveP , i go for those with easily available parts . Like my Tamiya . eventhough its expensive , but easily available .

07-12-2000, 02:51 PM
Puri , as Steve said I tested the TS4n for the upcoming issue of RCCAA ... and I really do like the car . I ' ve raced several nitro tourers , and the TTR sedan impressed me with its adjustability & overall quality for the price . It ' s not your typical pre - built car ; the suspension is very adjustable , and stock out of the box I like it better than my old HPI NRS42 .

I definately agree with SteveP though ; go with a car that you can get parts for . Hopefully your lhs carries or will start carrying Thunder Tiger parts ... it ' s a sweet car !

07-13-2000, 04:23 AM
I bought one today . It looks like a racing oriented car . It was 90 % assembled and it came with . 12 BZX ( p ) engine already mounted .
All I had to was building shocks and install manifold and tuned pipe . Maybe tomorrow I will break in the car .
Car looks very adjustable , but suspension parts seem weak . I am little worried about this , b / c my local hobbyshop doesn ' t carry thundertiger parts .
are there hop ups availeable for this car yet ?

07-13-2000, 04:29 AM
The shocks aren ' t as smooth as I expected . Did I do something wrong there ?
Also they are two differnt low end ball cups for shocks . Shorter one and longer one . Manual doesn ' t say which to use , so I just used shorter ones on front and longer ones on rear . Did I do right ?
Manual of this car isn ' t that good . It ' s as poor as ofna kits ' manual .
by the way my kit didn ' t have silicon oil for shock . How about yours ?

07-13-2000, 01:16 PM
Puri , read my review of the TS4n for some assembly tips if you can wait long enough for it to come out ( a few more weeks ). What you said is exactly what I found ; here are some things you might want to do before breaking in the car ...

* Apply loctite to all metal to metal screws , ESPECIALLY the engine mounting screws and header bolts !

* Test your tank for leaks ; I ended up installing a LONG piece of fuel tubing for the pressure line . You ' ll probably want to do the same .

* You ' re correct about the shock mounts ; keep ' em where you have them . The shocks that came w / my kit were smooth ; check to make sure none of the pistons have any flashing on them , and that you assembled the o - rings / seals correctly . Also , make sure to bleed the shocks & fill them completely w / oil .

* Set up the car according to the manual . You ' ll need a camber gauge , toe - in gauge , and a caliper to do this correctly . I found this setup to be great for a starting point .... it ' s very neutral w / the stock settings .

I think you ' ll be impressed by the car ' s handling , and its durability seems great so far . I ' ve already run the kit tires bald , and I ' ve had zero parts break . Hop - ups are on the way from TTR ; I ' m guessing you ' ll see them on sale in a few weeks . SteveP might know about this better than me . Feel free to email me w / further questions , or post here . Good luck ! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by StephenB (edited 07-13-2000).]

07-16-2000, 10:50 AM
You might want to consider filling the diffs w / 1000 wt silicone diff oil too ... they were a little loose when empty , and the 1K wt oil helped out on the diff action a lot !

I haven ' t had any leaking to report of either , so the diffs seem to be sealed pretty well .

07-16-2000, 04:17 PM
Puri , no the diffs are empty like the shocks so that each person can tune their cars to their specific track needs . 1K oil is a good place to start . About the steering ... the TS4n has a servo - saver built into the steering system . Look on the " driver ' s side " bellcrank post ... you ' ll find a small silver washer to turn left or right to adjust the amount of tension in the saver spring . Just use a standard plastic servo horn that comes w / your servos to attatch to the steering system . That should solve your tight - fit problem ! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

As for crystals , it ' s usually not good to mix different manufacturer ' s crystals with other systems . They * might * work , but why risk a run - away that could total your car when you can purchase the proper crystals for less than $ 20 . Having said that ... I use a HiTec Shredder AM receiver w / Futaba crystals and haven ' t had any problems yet !! Just test out the system before you take it out and run the car ... if you experience any glitches , bring it in !

[This message has been edited by StephenB (edited 07-16-2000).]

07-17-2000, 12:19 AM
You mean diff comes not filled with silicon when it ' s out of box ? Diffs seem to work smooth though .

btw I am having little problem with steering . I am looking for a servo saver that fits perfectly with this car . I used servo horn that came with radio gear and when I use that one , I don ' t get full steering . I mean when I turn left it doesn ' t turn all the way to left , but only half way to left . I think it ' s a problem with servo saver b / c when I tried to turn wheels to left or right with a hand , it ' s hard to do it . I think there is little room around steering servo area . Some of servo savers I have doesn ' t fit in there .
Let me know what kind of servo saver you used for your car .

07-17-2000, 12:22 AM
I used airtronics 94102 std servo for both steering and throttle .

07-17-2000, 12:28 AM
Do you know if futaba crystals work fine with Hitec AM receiver that came Lynx am radio or airtronics crystals work with Hitec receiver ?
I have a futaba stick and one airtronics pistol grip transimitter . I feel more comfortable with stick transmitter so I plan to use futaba crystals on Hitec receiver . My futaba receiver ' s ch2 doesn ' t work . Only ch1 works .
so my radio gear has 2 std air servo , Hitec AM receiver with futaba crystals . Let me know if they work .

07-17-2000, 07:05 AM
Puri How was the performance of the engine and how does the car look for accepting different engines . Very interested in the car myself . Also how was the areodynamics of the body . Hope you found the car to be a good choice .: D

07-17-2000, 11:24 AM
Spark, the engine is very strong for a box-stock mill. It revvs high & makes good power thru the powerband. It's definately one of the more powerful stock engines. Of course, it's not going to compete w/a Novarossi, but it's not meant to (considering the price of the entire car is almost the same as a Nova alone).

07-18-2000, 03:19 AM
I haven't yet to fully break in the engine yet so I don't know much about this engine. I heard good thing about TT engine so I guess it's good. So far engine seems to work pretty good. It starts easily and no problem yet.(it's new). Only thing I had to work with enigne was that Carb in this enigne was installed opposite way.( Car came assembled and engine was installed) I had loose a nut that hold a carb and install the carb other way. I wasn't able to set up throttle linkage beacuse carb was installed wrong. Is this only me having this kind of problem or others too?
You should be able to Mount other engines on this car. I think it's a very good for money. Only problem I think is part availability.

Stephen, I didn't know if diffs were empty. I didn't open and see diff yet. I ran about 2 tanks ( I am still in process of break in the enigne)
w/o silicon filled in diffs. Would this be a problem?(hope not). I have 3000wt silicon that was from friend's OFNA OB4. I am planning to use that in my diffs.

I still have steering problem. I bought a very small servo saver from Kimbrough and tried that one instead servo horns from radio gear, but it didn't help much. Like I said before, my wheels doesn't turn all the way to end when I turn them with transmitter. When I turn wheels left or right with a hand, wheels turn all the way to end. Using transimitter, I can only turn half of wheels turned with a hand.
At first I thought it was problem with servo horn because servo horn I used were too flexible. This Kimbrough one is very rigid and not flexible, but still my wheels don't turn that much to the either side.

I asked one of guy in my local hobbyshop about how to break in thunder tiger engine. He told me to start engine and first 2 tanks I just have to waste fuel and not run the car. When it's 5 tanks, I just run the car slowly and after that I can do whatever I can. I am not so sure if this is right procedure. Manual doesn't say how to break in the engine. Manual really ***** in this kit. Doesn't have word description and pictures are not even clear.
Btw when you start the engine, wheels shouldn't spin when your throttle setup is correct, right? Should carb be opened fully when it's full throttle and 3/4 closed when it's neutral and fully closed at full brake right? That's how I set up my throttle. I am not so sure if I did right. Let me know if I did wrong.

I filled up my shocks with 30wt silicon oil before and I think it's too light. What weight of silicon shock oil would be good to start with? I am thinking about 45wt

07-18-2000, 03:24 AM
body of this car looks ok. There are 3 different bodies available for kit as I know. I bought a kit with Alfa Romeo body because my local hobbyshop only had kit Alfa Romeo body. I painted it with outlaw red.
Look at HPI bodies. Friend of mine just bought a Nissan Skyline GT body and he painted in blue and it looks mad hot. I am gonna get one too.

07-18-2000, 04:03 AM
Manual suggests to use filter oil in engine filter. I never herad of filter oil. What kind of oil is that? Did it come with the kit?
Also there are two color sponges that goes into rubber hold. One is yellow and other is gray. Which one should be on top?
Picture on the kit box have yellow sponge on top, but I heard from someone that I should install grey one on top. Which is correct? Does it really matter whether I lube filter sponges with oil or whether I use yellow or gray on top?

07-18-2000, 09:52 AM
Yes, it is a good idea to use filter oil on the filter. AE makes a filter oil. I've been using plain after-run oil with good results. If you look close at the two colors of filter one will have slighly larger pores (I think the grey one), that one goes to the outside. The one with smaller pores goes towards the carb.

It doesn't take much oil either, just a drop or two then roll the filter between your fingers to work it in and squeeze out the excess.

07-18-2000, 11:34 AM
Puri, teamslacker is right on about the filter oil...just use some after-run oil on BOTH filter elements and roll 'em between your fingers to get the oil in the foam. I installed the gray filter on top.

For the diffs...there's no harm in running the diffs w/out silicone oil. The silicone is a tuning aid, not necessarily a lube. You should open 'em up though to make sure that they were lubed properly at the factory. Use a thick grease (AE makes good black grease) or the silicone diff fluid you mentioned and they'll be fine.

As for the steering, it sounds like your steering servo might be too weak. If you're sure that there's no binding in the steering system (it'll move freely when you turn the wheels?), then either your servo is too weak or your radio might be setup wrong. Check to make sure your steering rate adjustment (if you have one) is set to 100%. Are you sure that your servo horn isn't making contact anywhere on the chassis or upper-deck area?

I agree, the instructions in this kit are horrible, but you'll make it http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif There are a million ways to break engines in, but the most important part no matter what is to set the carb VERY RICH. Keep it as rich as possible w/out the engine shutting down. Run 3-5 tanks at this setting in your parking lot or driveway just driving around slowly, never more than 3/4 throttle, and that'll break in the engine correctly. Slowly lean out the top end needle (turn it clockwise) about 1/8 turn each time, 'till your engine is running fast. Good luck!

[This message has been edited by StephenB (edited 07-18-2000).]

07-18-2000, 11:37 AM
Puri---about the idle setup---the wheels will turn when the engine is idling if the car's being held in the air. You just don't want it to turn when it's on the ground.

To do this, setup your throttle so that there's ~1mm opening when on full brake AND neutral. You have to use your throttle trim to do this. If the carb is 3/4 open at neutral, it'll scream unless you're always on the brake!! Soooo, get the carb to be closed 100%, then screw the small black idle screw (it's on the right side of the carb, under the air intake) until there's a ~1mm opening. That should be a good place to start.

07-18-2000, 01:29 PM
there are two springs when you set up for throttle and brake. One of them is longer than the other and softer spring. Other one is short and very stiff. Which one of them should I use for throttle linkage? Right now I am using longer and softer one for throttle linkage and other for brake. Is this right?

Guess I got too many questions......

07-18-2000, 01:34 PM
Puri, I left some other steering and throttle setup hints for you on the HPI site.

You could run the car without filter oil, but risk sucking a grain of sand or something into the motor and scoring the piston/sleeve. Better off just picking up a bottle of afterrun oil for a couple bucks and using it in the filter and motor after running it. Your motor will appreciate it and reward you with a longer life! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

I had to replace my rear pulley because a rock chewed it up and there was grease in the diff from the factory. Never checked the front but I assume they are both lubed.

Yes there should be graphite hop ups but I don't know if anyone has them yet. Also a 2 speed will available, sway bars, motor mount, etc.

07-18-2000, 01:37 PM
Puri, use the short stiff one on the brake, and the longer softer one on the throttle.

I'm on AIM (bradjrc) and can try to help you with questions 'real-time' if your want.

07-18-2000, 01:45 PM
Puri, slacker's info is all correct..and don't worry about having too many questions. Again, the instructions are very bad so you shouldn't worry about not knowing what to do! Just ask away... http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

07-19-2000, 12:09 AM
At first, I set my throttle about 2-3mm open when it's NEUTRAL and fully close when hit hit the brake and fully open when hit the full throttle. I started engine with set up like this and engine started at first pull. When the car was on the ground, I think it didn't move, but when I held it, wheels spin slowly so I touched throttle trim until wheels stop spinning.

What would happen if I run the car without filter oil?

As for steering, I think I will have to take the car to local hobbyshop and get help there. I don't think my servo is weak. Because I tried to solove this problem with 3 differnt servo. I tried 94102, Hitec HS303, HS525BB. It's first time I have problem with steering on my R/C cars.

Are diffs lubed with at least small little amount of grease? I don't feel like to open diffs right now.

Are there graphite hop ups for suspension parts and upper radio plate? I think aluminium upper plate is ok, but not as good as graphite one.

07-19-2000, 03:16 AM
I thank all of you for helping me.

I bought a Team Associated Factory Team GT filter oil and lubed sponges with it. Sponges are very sticky now.
I am looking to buy some spare parts like suspension arms. Where can I find spare parts for ts4n? My local hobby shop doesn't carry parts for this car. I think I will really need extra suspension parts. They seem kind of weak. They are thin and soft.
Other than that I think it's a great car.

One of my friend just bought a nitro sedan too. He built it himself. He faced a little problem. His car doesn't move when he hits the throttle. When he hits the throttle, engine sound gets louder as if it is running at full speed, but wheels don't spin. I am trying to help him. Anybody know what is the problem?

Stephen, I hope to read your review of TT ts4n as soon as possible.

07-19-2000, 08:44 AM
Puri, try calling Ace at (800) 383-2657 and if they don't have the parts you want they'll probably be able to point you in the right direction. As for JR; he's a good guy and should help you out if you tell him your situation.

Those suspension arms are actually pretty darn tough; I still haven't broken any thing yet even though my radio got glitched VERY bad from a local guy w/a CB! The car ran fullspeed into the curb---no damage. I was amazed.

07-19-2000, 11:17 PM
Puri If you are using a Hitec Radio don't forget about the dial above your left thumb, this reduces the turning radius with radio only. Hope this helps. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif

07-20-2000, 02:33 AM
I am using Hitec radio on my other cars.

My engine is being shut off after about 15 seconds when it's at idle. It starts, it sounds loud, but as time goes it sounds quiter and quiter and dies after about 15 seconds. When it was running, I think this problem didn't appear.
I didn't touch much of engine setting from factory setting becuase I am still kind of break in the engine. What's wrong here?

07-20-2000, 03:03 AM
I think my throttle setup is little bit off. Am I right? Maybe I have closed carb too much at neutral position.

07-20-2000, 09:29 AM
Your low speed could be set too rich also. I had this problem with my carb even after turning the low speed in all the way. There was a problem with some of the carbs. Took my bad carb back to LHS and they sent it back, I did get a new one but haven't tried it yet. Currently running an OS10e on it and it tunes great. Also, rember that when your are breaking in the engine and have it set rich, it may not idle very long.

07-20-2000, 11:26 AM
Slacker is exactly right...it's your low-end carb setting. You'll probably need to send that one back; I've heard about these problems on the carb recently.

07-20-2000, 09:58 PM
I think my engine setting is too rich b/c lots of unburned gas come out of turn pipe hole and I see oil leaking under glow plug head. Also oil leaks between maniford and pipe. How do you prevent leaking?
Also what do you have to do after time after you run your car?

07-20-2000, 11:23 PM
Puri, you need to first send back your carb to the Ace Hobby Dist. Warranty division and get a new carb w/a good low-end mix screw. Have you tried screwing the tiny low-end screw ALL the way in?? If so, send it in.

To prevent leaking, you need to tighten the glow plug w/a glowplug wrench. For the manifold, take apart the coupling and flare the edges of the metal manifold with a set of pliars. Make it look like a little mini-trumpet, but without as much curl of the metal. Then re-install your rubber coupling (it will be difficult, but it'll be tight which is what you want) and you won't have leaking anymore http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

07-21-2000, 03:06 AM
I got a fuel filter. Should I use it?
I don't see that many people use it on their cars.

How long does a glow plug last?

07-21-2000, 11:23 AM
Use the filter if it's a good one; not the canister type. A glowplug's life will vary...I've had OS A3 plugs last as long as a month, while I've also burned up one in just one day. If your engine isn't running well, try a new plug first. Never hurts to check, and normally that's what it is.

07-25-2000, 11:11 PM
I got a new problem.
When my engine starts and when I hit the full throttle, my engine shuts off. Engine will take up to like 3/4 throttle, engine dies when I hit the full throttle.
I tried to adjust needle, but it didn't help.
It didn't matter whether I rich or lean the engine setting. Is this a carb problem? How can I fix it?

07-26-2000, 09:09 AM
Puri, first thing I'd probably do is change the glow plug and go back to the factory settings on the carb. Has the motor been running good since you finished break-in? You may also want to change fuel line, 'special if you used the included line. Wrap at least a 6" coil of fuel tube from the pipe to the tank. There is lots of presure with this pipe and the long pressure line will smooth it out a bit. If this hasn't helped you mave have an air leak in the motor, check that all the head bolts tight, carb is on snug, and back plate is tight. Also make sure you don't use too much oil in the air filter or you can snuff out the motor.
Stephen, great article, I'll be trying some of your setup this weekend.

07-26-2000, 09:55 AM
ok. I am gonna try what you said and let you know how it works.
btw, acehobby.com has a forum for thunder tiger cars like eb-4 and ts4n. maybe it can be a good place to talk about ts4n just like hpi users do with hpi forum.

07-26-2000, 05:12 PM
Slacker, thanks---let us know how your race goes this weekend!

Puri, I agree...you'll probably want to change plugs and install a longer pressure line. But if that fails, it sounds like your high-end needle valve is just too lean. How much did you richen it when you did adjust it? Have you checked your fuel lines to make sure there isn't any gunk in there? Check to make sure your lines aren't binding anywhere.

07-28-2000, 04:44 PM
I tried to lean and rich engine, but it didn't help much.
I will try long fuel tube tonight. Hope this works.
I adjusted engine by 3 turns counter clockwise after break in. At this point, engine couldn't stay long at idle.(i think it was rich) so I lean the engine little bit and engine stayed at idle for long. From there, I tried to lean the engine and tried to find a peak point, but at any point, I couldn't get any more than 3/4 throttle. At full throttle, engine dies.

Glenn Barnett
08-13-2000, 02:59 AM
I am new to nitro on road, and am trying to decide as to whether i should either buy the Thunder Tiger, or the HPI Nitro 2...
With track practice, and a more potent engine, would it be possible, for a Thunder Tiger to give the HPIs and other cars a run for their money???
Suppose what i am really asking is which car, will be able to grow with my experience etc???

[This message has been edited by Glenn Barnett (edited 08-13-2000).]