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View Full Version : Friction pegs and wobbly spur gear



seagull369
05-11-2009, 12:11 PM
Hi folks.

The friction pegs seem to be wearing unevenly on my T-maxx causing the spur gear to get all wobbly when it rotates. I've changed them out a few times, but the problem just keep returning and this last time it messed up the teeth on the clutch bell (the spur gear is steel as well on mine) because of it.

Can I just skip the pegs, toss in a few washers and bear down on the nut a little further to keep things tight that way?

rccardude04
05-11-2009, 12:27 PM
Yup. That's how they are. It doesn't hurt anything though.

What clutch bell are you using? The wobble is most likely not what's wrong...

-Eric

seagull369
05-12-2009, 08:11 AM
Thanks for replying.

I'm using the standard traxxas 20 tooth (part # 4120).

Yea, I considered maybe the bell wasn't aligned correctly up to the spur and that's what caused it to get chewed up. Since the spur looked the way it did, I just assumed that was the culprit. Thanks for that info.

You think I can go pegless anyway? The wobbling just doesn't sit well with me somehow. Dunno if I'll be risking damage to the (mostly plastic) transmission gears or remainder of the drivetrain by doing that, so that's why I'm asking.

zakerid
05-12-2009, 08:41 AM
this'll fix it...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJB6&P=SM

rccardude04
05-12-2009, 10:03 AM
Zakerid's link won't wobble at all! That's a nice setup.

If you stick with what you've got, or go with that setup, Robinson Racing also sells clutchbells that are hardened in order to take the punishment of a steel spur. The stock ones really are designed for a plastic spur, since that's what the truck comes with.

If you could get the metal spacers to work and totally bypass the slipper, it could work perfectly fine. Then again, you could destroy internal parts, which kind of defeats the purpose of the steel spur doesn't it? I assume the steel spur upgrade was to stop having to replace spur gears. If you end up breaking more internal parts because of the steel spur, why keep the steel spur at all?

-Eric

seagull369
05-15-2009, 09:44 PM
Think I'm gonna kick the pegs out of there and throw in a plain old thin washer (or 2), tighten the bejesus out of that nut and hope the friction keeps everything tight. If it doesn't, I'll probably try soldering those slipper press plates/notched rings (on either side) right to the spur.

I really don't see how I'd be causing much if any damage to any internals by doing that. Maybe if I was towing stuff or pushed it hard on asphalt or something that could be a consideration, but since I'm pretty easy on mine I'll probably just be popping wheelies a little more inadvertently. Having the smaller 2.5 engine with lower torque will also limit the amount of shock placed on the drivetrain too.

If anything does go awry from my 'master' plan here, I'll be sure to report back and let you know what happened.

Btw, interesting info. on the (possible) need for the hardened bell when using the steel spur. I hadn't considered that. Unfortunately I already ordered the 4120 stock replacement, but maybe a squirt of some dry lube between them both will help extend the life on that a tad.

Many thanks again for the help!

rccardude04
05-16-2009, 01:18 AM
I really don't think the lack of wobbling will help you though.

I say get the right clutchbell and throw it back together.

Let us know how the washers work out if you do go that way. I really don't think solder is going to hold that kind of a load. Maybe welding it would hold, but solder is just going to be too soft.

-Eric