Notices
 

Thread: Lindberg PT Conversion

Page 1 of 11 1234567891011 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 261
  1. Lindberg PT Conversion 
    #1
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    I will be converting another Lindberg PT boat to RC, I know I've seen a couple people ask how to do it, would anyone be interested in me posting my progress as I go? I wouldn't start on it until late winter/early spring since my garage isn't heated so don't expect any posts soon.
     

  2. pt boat 
    #2
    most definetly, would be good to see the progress. Also while I am here do you know where I would be able to find plans to scratch build a pt boat. my son is onto me to make him one.
     

  3.  
    #3
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    It's still too cold here to get started - my garage isn't heated, but I'll be starting soon. As for plans, try these:

    http://www.floatingdrydock.com/ptboat.htm

    http://www.pt-boat.com/

    Here's some more info for painting & research:

    1) PT Boats at War - World War 2 to Vietnam. Norman Polmar & Samual Loring Morison. MBI Publishing ISBN = 0-7603-0499-9
    2) PT Boats in Action. By T. Garth Connelly Illustrated by Joe Sewell. Squadron/Signal Publications Warships #7 ISBN = 0-89747-312-4

    You can go to almost any bookstore & order using the ISBN or try online. I have built a few PT Boats & these books are invaluable. They show everything from early to late weapon installation to paint schemes to deployment & final history on each boat.
     

  4.  
    #4
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Just to keep you posted - Ok, I've made some good progress since I had Friday off. I'll post some pics but so far I got my ESC & motors water cooled. then I got the motors & prop shafts & stuffing tubes mounted. Water pickups & exits put in. I even silver-soldered some oiler tubes to the tops of my stuffing tubes. Not bad for about 6 hours worth of work.
     

  5.  
    #5
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Ok, here's some update pics. This first pic shows the layout of the motors, prop shafts, & oilers on the stuffing tubes.
     

  6.  
    #6
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    This next pic shows the water pickups near the middle of the hull in the center & the water exits at the rear. I plan on routing the water through the motors, through the ESC & then out the back.
     

  7.  
    #7
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    This pic shows the ESC after I milled the heat sinks to accept 2 water cooling lines. This is the Traxxas ESC that handles 2 motors & 2 battery packs. The motors that I'm using are Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems since I can get them in forward & reverse for counter-rotating props. The cooling coils on the motors are hand-wound 5/32 x 36" aluminum tubing from the hobby shop but you can buy these (like from Tower Hobbies) if you don't want to make them.
     

  8.  
    #8
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    This pic shows the motor area in a little better detail.
     

  9.  
    #9
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    I made my own motor mounting bulkhead, but look at what I could've bought had I looked before hand. This would have looked great in my hull. Oh well, what I made should work great. Just wish I would have looked around first. In fact, don't be surprised if in my later postings I've ripped out my homemade job & put this in it's place.

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGBG7&P=0


    Also, here are the motor cooling coils that I made if you want to buy them.

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGBH3&P=7
     

  10.  
    #10
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Ok, I'm just not happy with that plastic home-made bulkhead. I have some 1/8" aluminum sheet that would work perfect. It won't be galvanized & blue, but it will look much better. Out with the old....

    On 2nd thought, maybe aluminum will transmit too much noise to the outside of the hull. I have some 0.188" thick fiberglass 'board' that will work better. I'll keep you posted.
     

  11.  
    #11
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Ok, decided to make the new bulkhead out of fiberglas board. It will be quite sturdy & transmit less noise (see pic). Only problem is, I had to pry the old bulkhead out of the boat & it fought me the whole way. Somehow I managed to bend the stuffing tubes with the back of my hand while prying so those too had to come out & get replaced. So, I am now back to square one - an empty hull. While I was replacing the prop shafts & stuffing tubes I decided to silver-solder the dogbone cups to the top ends of the prop shafts since this area will be hard to get to & I won't be able to tighten a set screw if it loosens up on me. After I did this I noticed one shaft fit tightly the last 1/8" in the tube. This was caused by a little extra silver solder on the shaft. BRIGHT IDEA! I know what will clean this quickly - I chucked the shaft up in my drill & held a hand file against the shaft to smooth away the extra solder. What an idiot! I pushed a bit too hard, the shaft bent 90 degrees while it was spinning, & at several hundred rpm's it came around & smacked me in the cheek & took off my glasses. Lucky I didn't lose an eye & it hurts like heck. So, now I not only have an empty boat hull, I'll have a scar bigger than a postage stamp on my cheek. I'll give it another go soon & will keep you posted on 'Project PT'.
     

  12.  
    #12
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    I'm almost back to where I was before I had to rip out the old bulkhead. I also found out that the JB Weld comes 'unstuck' from the ABS hull when the hull flexes. So, I put the motors & stuffing tubes back in using some stiff silicone & I think this may be the ticket.
     

  13.  
    #13
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    I haven't posted in a while but I have been busy on the ol' PT. I'll get some pics up when I can. Anyway, I have lengthened the rudder tubes by inserting them with some aluminum tubing that has 3/16"ID & 1/4"OD. This will fit some 3/16" custom rudder shafts perfectly - not to mention that Dumas has some rudder throws made specifically for 3/16" dia rudder shafts. Finally, it looks like it's going a bit smoother than it was. I also have the rudders done & the radio box built. It may be hard to picture but I am suspending the ESC in the radio box by the water ins & outs. I have everything trial fit & so far it all looks good. I'll still need to get a lid on the radio box & fit the battery packs in place.
     

  14.  
    #14
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Here you can see the larger-than scale rudders sticking out below the hull. Everything inside has been test fit & looks good. I put in the springs to hold in the battery packs & made sure all the wires were long enough.
     

  15.  
    #15
    Join Date
    07-08-2004
    Location
    BAYONNE, (ELCO) NJ
    Posts
    2
    Bugfanatic...

    Your Modellooks Great!!!

    May I Make A Few Suggestions That Worked For Me?....thanks...

    My Most Recent Pt Is The 1/32 Lindberg You're Building. I've Equipped Mine With Twin 550 Air-cooled Motors And It Runs Like Bat Out Of He**!

    Traxxas Sc, Etc...here's My Suggestions...to Reduce Vibration And To Protect The Prop Shafts (i've Upgraded Mine From The Stock Brass Units To Stainless Steel) I've Filledin The Areas Between The Prop Shafts And Hull, Inside And Out, Using West System Epoxy Found In Marine Supply Stores (this Stuff Holds Like King Kong!!) And Streamlined The Areas By Sanding...no Vibration There.

    Although Your Pics Seem Preliminary I Noticed The Starboard Drive Coupler
    Is Not Aligned Between The Motor And Prop Shaft. This Will Give You A Monster Vibration And Probaly Shake Her Apart At Torpedo Run Speeds.

    Ps...great Job On Those Oiling Tubes!! Keep Upthe Good Work.

    Boatpoker
     

  16.  
    #16
    Hey Guys,
    I have just started in this hobby and just received a Lindberg kit I won on ebay. I am looking for all the pointers I can before I start the R/C building portion of the kit.
    Were should I get my running gear? I would really would like to make it look real as I can but fast too.

    THANKS in advance for any advise.
     

  17.  
    #17
    nice model, now for the "but" if you can I would recomend making the prop shafts out of stainless steel. I used brass on mine ond a combination of motor torque and an underwater rock bent the shaft which siezed the motor. the seized motor quickly melted down the wiring and speed control almost catching on fire.on a second note fuse or circuit breaker protection would be a good idea but you speed control may have a thermal shutdown. if you fuse your motors seperately you could still have 1 motor running to get you back to shore.
     

  18.  
    #18
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    First thing is go to two motors powering two props & throw out the original Delrin gear stuff. You can get a Mack power setup here

    http://www.mackproductsrc.com/index.htm

    I use some modified motors with the original prop shafts. Stainless would make it absolutely bulletproof, but this is my 3rd Lindy & I've never had a prop shaft problem so I'll keep mine brass for now. Also, I have to address a few things. I kinda blew off the criticism but I need to point out a few things so that others aren't confused. The old setup near the top of this post was out of alignment, that was a few of many reasons that I remounted the motors to a new bulkhead. That old bulkhead was scrap that I was trying to cobb in. You can see the old vs new when comparing bulkheads in the pictures as it progresses. If you look at the new pictures, nothing is out of alignment. Trust me, it's perfect, look again. I too have filled in the stuffing tube areas & didn't use the supplied pieces. Constructive criticism is good, if you close your mind you stop learning, & I love to keep learning. What bothered me were the 'pointers' without the person really looking at what I had done or was doing. I've done that myself, been so into the whole 'pointing out what's wrong' that I missed some things, like the newer pictures that showed it had already been fixed. Don't get me wrong, the pointers were spot-on. They were just a little too late & I was puzzled as to why they were posted. In fact, I kinda lost interest in my PT for a bit..... but maybe I'll get back on it.

    Also, another good thing to do is to build up the tubes where the rudders go through the hull. Raise them as far as possible to keep as much water out as you can by redrilling & inserting some aluminum or brass tubing so it extends above the water line. I also used some Dumas rudder arms to fit my new rudder posts I got from here:

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE517&P=7
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE518&P=7
     

  19.  
    #19
    Thanks,
    How about the counter rotating props, should they turn to the inside or to the outside looking from the stern?. I now have another Lindberg on its way, so now my son will have one too. Should I get the Dumas running gear for their 33'' boat? Sorry about all the questions, but I am big in doing research.

    Don't loose interest in your PT Boat I am VERY interested in your project,this article is the reason I joined. I have been building models for a long time but this is my first R/C Model, this is a big learning curve for me.

    THANKS AGAIN
    Colton
     

  20.  
    #20
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Cool, thanks csligar, I appreciate the good words. You know, I'm not sure if it matters which way to do the props. That's a good question. Currently I have mine so that they turn inwards at the top - anyone know the answer to this one? The Dumas running gear is pretty good, but you could do it yourself & save a little $$$, especially since you'd still have to make the bulkhead to mount the motors. Plus, i didn't really like the Dumas speed control. I have extra bulkhead material, just let me know if you need anything. I could send a couple bulkheads with no holes so you can finish it yourself to fit the motors you're using. If you plan on using the stock brass prop shafts, there will be a 'bump' in the center of the boat that you will need to Dremel down where the new bulkhead will go. This bump is pretty obvious & is shaped like a .22 round-nosed bullet sticking straight up from the centerline. There will also be several lines on the sides that hold the original bulkhead in place that come off real easy with a sharp chisel. Just push the chisel down the wall & the lines will roll right off. This speed control replaces the one I have http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGBK3&P=7 but it's a little pricey. BUT! It is already set up for 2 battery packs & 2 motors so you don't have to change ANYTHING. Keep me posted & let me know if you need anything.
     

  21.  
    #21
    Thanks for the advise and the bulkhead offer, once I have a plan put together I will share it with you and see what you think. I may take you up on the bulkhead offer.

    I have checked out Tower Hobbies and read their Tech info on the Dumas speed control, they also don't much care fo it.

    Also any thought on 3 bladed brass or bronze props?

    I had the smae thought as you on the rotation of the props (turning inward )

    THANKS for the help

    Colton
     

  22.  
    #22
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    I am using the Dumas 3-bladed brass props. If you don't like that ESC you could always use a Super Rooster & water cool it.
     

  23.  
    #23
    I checked out the speed control you suggested and that looks like the way to go.
    Do you have the part number of the props? trying to put everything down on paper so I can work out the budget. Any suggestions on the tranmitter and reciver?

    Hope I don't wear you out, looks as if you have a handle on this stuff and I hate to buy the wrong things.

    THANKS again for your help
     

  24.  
    #24
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Not a prob, I don't mind at all. Here are the props (you'll still need a 1/8" drive dog):

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE500&P=7
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE501&P=7

    I just use an old cheap 2-channel am radio. I haven't had a problem with radio noise yet. You can get some decent deals on these, just shop around.
     

  25.  
    #25
    Bug: what a fantastic conversion you do! If I had seen this thread a year ago I would not have sold my 25 year old Lindberg PT!
     

Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •