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Thread: Lindberg PT Conversion

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  1.  
    #51
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    p.s. I should also mention that if you mount the motors this way, you'll want to scoot the bulkhead closer to the prop shafts - don't mount it in the stock location. You can get rid of the guide ribs on the inside of the hull with a sharp cold chisel. Just push it down the inside of the hull & the ribs will peel right up. This way the flexible line style hookup will be as short as possible to keep the lines from 'whipping' as they rotate. An even better way to connect the motors to the prop shafts would be something like this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE444&P=0
     

  2. Talking Lindbergh PT 1/32 scale model 
    #52
    Quote Originally Posted by bugfanatic
    I will be converting another Lindberg PT boat to RC, I know I've seen a couple people ask how to do it, would anyone be interested in me posting my progress as I go? I wouldn't start on it until late winter/early spring since my garage isn't heated so don't expect any posts soon.
    I am in the process of searching for a Lindbergh Pt boat 1/32 scale. I wish to purchase one to put together and make it rc controlled. Do you or any other reader have some idea of a fair price to pay for a kit.
     

  3. Talking  
    #53
    Quote Originally Posted by csligar
    Hey Guys,
    I have just started in this hobby and just received a Lindberg kit I won on ebay. I am looking for all the pointers I can before I start the R/C building portion of the kit.
    Were should I get my running gear? I would really would like to make it look real as I can but fast too.

    THANKS in advance for any advise.

    I am looking to buy a kit for a 1/32 scale of the lindbergh boat. Could you give me some idea of a fair price to pay for one.
     

  4.  
    #54
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Right now they have been going from $50-$75. Every now & then you might get a better deal - I paid about $60 for my last one.
     

  5. New Guy 
    #55
    Hi Guys,

    I just found this conversation and I have a couple of things that may be of interest. I built the Lindberg Blue Devil a couple of years ago, and the counter-rotating props on real destroyers turn inwards from the bottom, I think to avoid cavitation. I checked on the 1/1 USS Kidd in Baton Rouge. The real PT's, of course, had 3 props, all spinning in the same direction. Btw, while the Fletcher does roll in a most alarming fashion, if ballasted correctly, you can put the rails under and it pops right back.

    I bought my PT 109 kit on eBay aobut 6 months ago, then promptly bought a "new" old house and so it sits neglected (sigh). I got mine cheaply, but they are currently fetching over $120 on eBay. HOWEVER, if you look at Tower Hobbies or eHobbies, Lindberg apparently intends to re-issue the kit in April for around $65-$75, which is good news for all of us.

    My intention is to use 3 Mabuchi 380's like I use in my r/c airplanes. They are really cheap, couple of $ each, and should provide plenty of oomph in direct drive. I make all my own shafts and such too, and us oiling tubes like bug, but I normally use 1/16" music wire as shafts as it doesn't bend as easily.

    If I ever get my model room up and running again, I will send some pics. Enjoying the thread, thanks. Jeff
     

  6. Pt 109 Finally Here 
    #56
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    NEW YORK
    Posts
    34
    I Just Received My Lindeberg Pt 109 From Tower After Months Of Waiting On Backorder. It Arrived In Perfect Condition But There Are Some Issues. 1)the Prop Shaft Tubes Are Slightly Bent And Will Have To Be Replaced. 2) The Wire On One Side Of The Motor Was Off.
    3) If You Want To R/c This Boat The Motor And Running Gear Included Are Useless. See All The Great Tips In This Forum On The "right" Way To R/c This Boat, Bug Is Dead On. The Rest Of The Model Has A Lot Of Potential! I'm Off To The Store For Parts !
     

  7.  
    #57
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Merlin, thanks for the kudos. I really want to 'do it right' this time. You know, take the time, make it robust & dependable, make it look good inside & out. Too bad I can't get it done as soon as I want to. I've learned a lot by taking my time & not hacking it together. I found out there really is no way to attach a fiberglass bulkhead to that ABS plastic. Nothing really works good. I thought that silicone would be my best bet, but I was wrong. I've tried everything from super glue to JB Weld & nothing will put up with the hull flexing but still hold everything together without a dogbone coming out of the cups. I may just have to poke something through the hull like some smooth head bolts or something - would really rather not do that. There's got to be a way, & that's where I left it. Had to put it down & figure this one out. I figured I would have had it on the lake last summer, but another boat & other projects (another VW) delayed it - hopefully I can get back on track this summer & close this with some great running pics. Too many projects, too little time.
     

  8.  
    #58
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    NEW YORK
    Posts
    34
    As A Last Resort Try "shoe Goop" It's Really For Repairing Shoes But So Far I Found It Sticks To Plastic,wood,rubber And Light Metal Better Than Silicone. Also As Far As Silicones Go Permatex Is Better Than Ge.i've Used It On Real Boats!
     

  9.  
    #59
    Join Date
    05-29-2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida, USA
    Posts
    302
    Try using gorilla glue. It will bond anything porus or not, and gets stronger with moisture!
     

  10.  
    #60
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    I actually got a bottle just for this reason, but wasn't sure it was going to stick to ABS. I'll have to try it.
     

  11. Exclamation Inexpensive motors 
    #61
    Would these motors be suitable for the 109 conversion. I found them for a really great price!! Anyones thoughts please.

    This last batch of 545 motors has much heavier windings than the previous motors. These motors are putting out a lot of RPM at lower voltages. Works well with 6 to 12 volt batteries. A pair of these motors could easily power a 1/96 scale cruiser or large destroyer. R. F. I. (radio frequency interference) supression capacitor included.

    * Rated for 12 volts max, will turn on 1 cell ( 1.2 volts ) with no load.
    * Stall current at 12 volts - 5.0 amps
    * Draws 1.25 amps running direct drive with a Radestock 1.5 (38mm)" 3-bladed prop at 12 volts (3950 RPM).
    * Can Size: 1.32" (33.5mm) diameter, 2.2" (56mm) long.
    * Shaft Size: .125" (3.1mm) diameter, .3125" (7.9mm) long.
    * Mounting holes: use 3mm machine screws.
    * Weight: 170 grams.
     

  12.  
    #62
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    Yeah, those sound like drill motors. Should work good.
     

  13.  
    #63
    Thanks for getting back so soon. I can get these for $7.00 each or $2.00 for each additional motor. Again thanks for the help. Will be getting my 109 kit in next week. I'll be converting it over to a late war torpedo/gun boat.
     

  14.  
    #64
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    NEW YORK
    Posts
    34
    Well it seems i can never do anything easy (or cheaply). I got 2 Johnson 600 speed motors for $14.00
    i couldn't resist. Now i need a speed controller ($$$$$$$$$$$) and 2 batteries($$$$$$$) and a wiring diagram to put the ESC,batteries and Motors to the RX. Bug do you have a wiring diagram before i burn this up.......................

    P.S. i set up the stock gearing and included motor for a Goof.......it was so loud my wife came in screaming to shut it off ,LOL.
    Thanks John
     

  15.  
    #65
    Merlin, let me know what you came up with for the ESC & batteries. i would appreciate a copy of the wiring as well. Thanks
     

  16. ESC & batteries, wiring 
    #66
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    NEW YORK
    Posts
    34
    As soon as i get somthing i will FWD it to you. The ESC I'm afraid will be more than the Boat.
    for battery packs check-
    http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=321371
    Mike will
    will make us anything we need...look under custom packs.
    John

    P.S. fooling around i ran a 600 speed thru the stock gears with a A/C 7.2 -700 mah pack................The gears melted in 6 seconds....really they are gone !
     

  17.  
    #67
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    I cheated & used the ready-to-wire Traxxas ESC. As for wiring them yourself, you need to decide if you want your batteries in series or parallel. If you do series, you double the voltage to the speed control which then directs them to the motors. See what your ESC can handle as far as voltage in, that may tell you right there what you can/can't do. Parallel will keep the voltage the same but double the amperage. Then, decide if you want your motors in series or parallel also. Just a guess but you'll probably want to run the batteries & motors in parallel. Others can jump in here as to what they feel is best. Sorry I haven't done a follow-up in so long. Too many projects - and my bug is project #1 right now. SO, as soon as I get back to my PT, I promise to keep you posted.... right now I've done the radio box & have a new bulkhead ready to put in (I want to try that gorilla glue).
     

  18.  
    #68
    Join Date
    09-25-2003
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    596
    p.s. Yes, the stock motor & gear setup really puts out the sound! Sounds awful, doesn't it? I can't even describe the shrill vibrating plastic & gear mesh sound it makes, definitely unique. I will attest to the fact that it (the stock setup) quiets down considerably once in the water though. That hull just seems to amplify any noise from the bulkhead like a bell when it's out of the water - that's one of several reasons why I made a new bulkhead & connected the motors direct to the prop shafts.
     

  19. Battery Hook Up 
    #69
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    NEW YORK
    Posts
    34
    I Think This Is How It Should Look .for Two Totors A "y" Cable Should Work...i Think
    Attached Images
     

  20.  
    #70
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    NEW YORK
    Posts
    34
    Two Motors..........totors, Gee I Did Not Even Start Drinking Yet!
     

  21.  
    #71
    You know, this is all greek to me. I'm really confused about the batteries, connectors, what type of ESC ect. This is the first electric R/C boat I've put together. I really appreciate all of ya'll's help. By the way, I have a BAD Ship Models DE on the building board now. I can build em, just don't know how to set the power trains up. There are NO R/C boat clubs in my area. Again thanks.............
     

  22. Greek 
    #72
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    NEW YORK
    Posts
    34
    Wing
    This is my 1st Boat as well. I do electric RC Planes.With a single AC motor you just put in the matching ESC and your done ! With Boats it seems that the ESC is most important because when running slow the ESC can over heat and burn up as well as burning up at high speed . If we are to run 2 Motors
    the ESC (with reverse)will have to take something like 60 to 90 Amps to live.
    Bugfanatic used the ready-to-wire Traxxas ESC. and I believe Super Rooster has one for two Motors. As i find out more i will post it .All i know is the ESC will be the big $$$$$$$$$$$$$ item. How big is the DE you are building?
    John
     

  23.  
    #73
    Merlin,
    Thanks, I need all the info I can get. The DE is a 1/96 scale from BAD Ship Models, is 38" long with a 4" beam. Kit is all wood, has all running gear except motors & R/C equipment. Check them out at this site http://www.badshipmodels.com/
     

  24.  
    #74
    Hi i'm a new member and I just found this site and have read every one of the PT posting. I wish I knew about some of the mods bugfanitic has mentioned when I did mine. I also have one of the 32 scale Lindberg kits. I have owned it for close to 26 years. I converted it over to R/C in 1994 and LOVE IT! Mine has two Rhino 505's, direct driven through real u-joints,(very smooth) using a mechanical speed controller, (burned up a couple electronic contolers figuring out what would work) two 7.2 batterys are wired in series and man does it go! Only about 8 inches of the boat is in the water at full throttle! I have to be carefull when turning it hard as it can throw the rear of the boat right out of the water. My motors only get a little warm but the speed controler gets real hot! I had to cut out some of the plastic from under the cabin to give it room to cool. I used the stock tubes and props and have had very little water come in. I put rubber o-rings in between the u-joint and a flat washer that goes up against the stuffing tube. The o-rings are sqeezed in tight and keep slight tension against the flat washer which dramaticly restricts water from coming in. I just wish I would have made the modification to the rudder tubes that I read about here, cause that is where I get my water. I mounted my motors on aluminum plates that I made. I used RTV to attach them to the bottom of the boat and have not had a problem with them. My boat sounds like good also, a nice low humming noise at any speed. I will be buying another model soon and will be iplimenting a lot of the same modifications I read here. I'll keep you all posted if you are intrested!
     

  25.  
    #75
    I'm using GreatPlanes T 600 electric motors. The problem I'm having is that the motors have so much torque that they have destroyed the shaft supports outside the hull. I seem to be having a lot of high frequency viberation through the shafts, anyone have any ideas? I'm using Gruppner U-Joints, stock shafts and props. I think it best that you try out the conversion in the water and not dry. I'm using the XL-1 ESC as described above and one 7.2 2400 MaH battery pack. All help appreciated.
     

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