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Thread: Props --- Sharpen, balance & polish

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  1.  
    #51
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
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    If your LHS doesn't carry them or can't get them, you can order it through Tower Hobbies.
     

  2.  
    #52
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
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    If you haven't gotten one yet, the latest issue of RCBM has a great article on sharpening and balancing props by our own Moderator in here, Rick Eyrich.
     

  3.  
    #53
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    1,247
    Is the topflite a better balancer or the Dubro Tru-spin??
     

  4.  
    #54
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    Hows this for a shoping list.
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXDS07&P=K
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXNM83&P=K
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXHY61&P=K
    I know that the prop is more expensive but I don't want to have to pay shipping for just a prop Should I get brass or stanless on the prop???
     

  5.  
    #55
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    08-08-2002
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    Kalamazoo, Mi.
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    The Du-Bro isn't bad, it's similar to the Robart that I used for years. The Top-Flite you might find to be too sensitive for most users. It might drive you over the wall because you'll have problems getting a prop too perfect.
     

  6.  
    #56
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    So, would you go with the Du-bro???
     

  7.  
    #57
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    08-08-2002
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    Kalamazoo, Mi.
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    For ease of use they are the same. You might like that the Du-Bro isn't so sensitive.
     

  8.  
    #58
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    1,247
    But it is sensitive enough to balance a prop well??

    Also, whats better. A stainless prop(harder to work with) or a Copper????
     

  9. Talking  
    #59
    Join Date
    08-13-2004
    Location
    england
    Posts
    181
    stanless steel is harder to work with,but i think it looks better..copper is more easy than steel but watch out for the dust when filing the prop its DANGEROUSE ... anyway look in this months issue of rcboatmodeler...theres a few pages on prop balancing and sharpening....but if i was you id get a prop modded already for you straight away even if it cost alittle extra...
     

  10.  
    #60
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    Where can i get a modded prop???
     

  11.  
    #61
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    And do stainless props run better then copper or will I not notice a difference between the two??
     

  12. Talking  
    #62
    Join Date
    08-13-2004
    Location
    england
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    i no of on in USA hang on ill look for the web address.. stanless steel is harder (stronger)they say you can throw these props around a dont worrie to much if you hit some thing with them..... they both run the same i think,just that stanless steel is stronger check this out he doesnt sell props but have a look at these ejp..http://rcprops.com/rcprops/index.html
    Last edited by rico3; 07-20-2005 at 06:23 PM.
     

  13. Talking  
    #63
    Join Date
    08-13-2004
    Location
    england
    Posts
    181
    ill have to look for that web address for the modded props that you can buy... give me a little time ejp ill get back to you ..
     

  14.  
    #64
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    1,247
    I'm going to order a balancer and prop so I will just experement with that
     

  15.  
    #65
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
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    3,195
    www.cmdracing.com has a Prop Wall that has props on hand and ready for shipping. It is updated daily so if you don't see what you want, keep checking in or request one. I might get into doing some prop work this weekend. A LHS is going out of business after being here in town for a good 20 years. Myself and a friend are probably going to get every prop that they have on the wall. It's to bad as they were the only one out of 3 that kept boating supplies in stock.
     

  16.  
    #66
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
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    1,247
    Better then what I have. 0 out of 0 here carry boating stuff
     

  17. props 
    #67
    Join Date
    01-30-2005
    Location
    Garland TX
    Posts
    255
    Theres no difference in stainless or berylium as far as performance goes, but rico is right, watch out when ya mod those bronze ones, the dust is realy bad for ya. Word of warning, before ya mod a prop get alot of info if ya dont know what ya doing and make sure all the blades are the same size and shape and ballenced right otherwise you will just go through flexis every 15 mins and lead teflon bearings too, you have been warned.
     

  18.  
    #68
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
    Posts
    1,247
    I just plan to do the bar cut so I can get it to rev out faster. I also want to clean up the hub real good and thin the blades some, also give a a nice polish job. Thanks for warning me.
     

  19.  
    #69
    Join Date
    05-29-2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida, USA
    Posts
    302
    How do you keep the props from tarnishing??
     

  20.  
    #70
    The only ones I've had success with not tarnishing is the SS. Copper is going to tarnish a little so keep some polish handy.
     

  21. Talking  
    #71
    Join Date
    08-13-2004
    Location
    england
    Posts
    181
    ok ejp heres that link for buying modded props....http://hometown.aol.com/tpw033/thepropworks.html
     

  22.  
    #72
    While the glue dries in the radio box for the Fighter, may as well cut up a prop. A bit of experimenting.


    Prather 280

    Before even running, it got a huge Barr Cut. Thought the Sikk would like it but it doesn't. Speed was way off and didn't rev. So we'll try something else.

    Look at the left side of the prop and you'll see the orriginal cut. The right side is being worked & will show more in the next pic.

    .
    Attached Images
     

  23.  
    #73
    Notice something missing from one blade?

    This is the tounge area as its referred to. Its leaving town.

    Look close & you can see where the trailing edge of the "R" side (of Prather) is getting blended into a back cut now.

    The Barr Cut and tounge removal are two good mods that help them rev quicker.
    Attached Images
     

  24.  
    #74
    More blending. For experimenting purposes, I'm going to keep it rounded on the trailing edge.

    .
    Attached Images
     

  25.  
    #75
    side shot.

    Scribe lines along the trailing edge where the planned back cut will be. (like said above, the plan is to try a rounded back cut this time)
     

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