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Thread: Progress On the Boat Building Project

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  1. Thumbs up We Have Sides!!! 
    #26
    I got the sides on today and the thing is actually looking like a boat now! The middle compartment looks a bit rough because I had to scrape out all the fiberglass I put in due to a bad batch of epoxy that wouldn't harden In the end, though, I decided that everything was stiff enough so I didn't need the fiberglass... But it should look spiffier after a good sanding and another coat of epoxy. I still haven't ordered my radio gear, but I've located nearly everything on my list. Next step is getting the running hardware ready to stick in and working on mounting my other gear. I have some nice 90 degree angle aluminum hanging around that would work for mounting servos...
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  2.  
    #27
    Join Date
    12-28-2003
    Location
    roseville michigan
    Posts
    149
    dont go cheap on the radio trust me
    get a jrxs3 its what i use and i love it
    you have all the trims sub trims and everything you need
    it cost about 150 and the best part
    no crystals to deal with
     

  3.  
    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by 69dart
    dont go cheap on the radio trust me
    get a jrxs3 its what i use and i love it
    you have all the trims sub trims and everything you need
    it cost about 150 and the best part
    no crystals to deal with
    That JR XS3 sure looks like the Cadillac of radios!
     

  4. Question Size and Length of Chine Rails??? 
    #29
    Since I'm using the instructions for the Wild Thing plans from R/C Boat Modeler as a guide, I decided to leave the sides a bit long so they would overhang the bottom and make chine rails when the groove is filled. How large do these chine rails need to be to create the right amount of lift? The boat is about 7" wide (fairly narrow) and I'm hoping it will go at least in the mid 30mph range. Also, is it best to align the rails horizontally, or angled slightly inward to improve tracking?
     

  5. Pipe Positioning 
    #30
    Hey Guys, I may have been quiet the last few days, but I have been busy! I got most of the faring done on my chine rails and I just epoxied the shaft tube in today.

    I'm waiting for my servos to arrive and the challenge of the day is figuring out what is the best layout for my tuned pipe. I'd like to have the entire pipe below deck if possible and I anticipate drilling or making cutouts in my bulkhead and transom to fit the pipe through. I stuck the pipe on top today just to get an idea of how it will fit. I've got an O.S. engine and the header has a "high" and "low" position. I'm going to try to use the "high" position if I can to try to reduce the chance of water running back into the engine when the boat stops. As soon as I get the hull sealed, I'll weight it down and float it in a tub to get an idea of where the waterline will be. How does this layout look?
    Attached Images
    Last edited by DaveDude; 06-26-2005 at 07:11 PM.
     

  6.  
    #31
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
    Posts
    1,247
    That pipe is going to be WWWAAAYYY long. You will have to add a extesion on the stinger or have the pipe hang out of the boat.
     

  7.  
    #32
    Join Date
    01-08-2004
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    626
    Don't send it through the boat. Just let it go out the top like the rest of us. I always heat the header and angle it up a little. As it sets, the header is like a "U" I just pull the outlet side up to help the pipe point out above the deck.
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  8.  
    #33
    Yeah, thanks for shaking me awake! Sticking the pipe out the top is definitely going to be easier and it looks like my middle compartment will be open, anyway, so it won't cause any sealing issues.
     

  9.  
    #34
    I finished sealing up the wood on the hull yesterday and test floated it with the engine and some fishing weights inside to represent fuel, radio gear, and hardware. I was surprised to find that the thing floats level and quite high in the water! The water line is just above the chine. Well, I guess as long as the prop's underwater, I shouldn't worry about it.

    Right now, I'm working on fabricating servo mounts and getting my control linkages all set up. I'm sort of confused as to how to install the Du-Bro rubber pushrod boots. first, do I jam the round plastic insert into the boot or glue it on? Second, do I put the O-ring on the plastic insert directly, or around the outside of the rubber boot? Oh, and is it usually better to have the boot on the rudder pushrod on the outside or the inside of the boat? Inside might allow water to sit inside the boot, but outside might interfere with the movement of my rudder?
     

  10.  
    #35
    I got another question for ya! Does it make any difference if I route the cooling water outlet straight out the side next to the engine or run it back out the transom? I'm curious because it seems like the water would flow out the back better than the side, but that would require another hole in the bulkhead.
     

  11.  
    #36
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
    Posts
    3,195
    Dave, if you plan on racing or just making a lot of right turns, I find it easier to exit the water through the left side of the hull. It makes it easier to see if the water is flowing and won't be obscured by any spray coming off the back of the boat.
     

  12.  
    #37
    Join Date
    01-08-2004
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    626
    I believe the plastic part is glued in place through the bulkhead, then the pushrod goes through it and the boot. The O-ring then goes over the boot and seals the boot against the plastic insert. Run the water out through the side; or if you think you are going to go fast enough just send it straight up off the head. My Micoburst (white above) just has a 1/16 hole drilled in the top of the water jacket. The water sprays up and the boat moves out from under it.
     

  13.  
    #38
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
    Posts
    3,195
    Spray WD-40 or put a little grease on the linkage when you slide it though the boot, it'll go on a lot easier.
     

  14.  
    #39
    Thanks for the feedback. Running the water out the side will be a lot easier. I'm working on making the steering servo mount out of two pieces of angle aluminum attached to a block of wood. Unfortunately, I haven't made much progress this weekend cause I was distracted by another building project (a full size one), but I hope to be able to devote my full attention to the boat again tomorrow or the next day! I'm also still waiting for a drive dog that is supposed to be in the mail. Until I get that, I can't quite put together my drive line. Still, I'm really hoping I'll have this thing in the water in the next 2 or 3 weeks! I gotta figure out what color to paint it, quick!
     

  15. Servo Saver? 
    #40
    Well, I just got my throttle servo (a HiTec HS-81) mounted today and I'm a bit worried because it often buzzes at the neutral position, like it's not quite centering. When I move the pushrod by hand, I don't feel any significant resistance and the servo does not have any trouble moving when I hit the throttle. I've never rigged up a throttle for a nito engine before, so I don't quite know what to expect. Do I need some kind of servo saver to get the servo to center properly without buzzing? Can anybody recommend one?
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  16.  
    #41
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
    Posts
    3,195
    Be careful when messing around with the HS-81 servo. The nylon gears are weak and won't take much abuse. The metal gear ones are a lot stronger. I use those in several of my boats. You might be getting some binding from the connectors that you're using as they can't swivel much throughout the range of travel. You can put a ball-link type of connector on one end or put a "Z" bend at one end, the cheap and easy way to do it, usually through the servo arm. It would be a good idea to do it now as later on when the engine is running the vibration will shake those loose, especially if you are using the plastic grommets. Don't ask me how I know.
     

  17.  
    #42
    Yeah, I was actually planning on using a "Z" bend to attach the pushrod to the throttle arm, but, as I discovered, the 2-56 pushrod does not fit through the hole! How does one deal with this problem? Would the screw on a 2-56 size ball connector fit through the hole on the throttle arm?

    I'm having trouble with my fittings being too big for the hole in my aeromarine rudder too! I got a 4-40 size ball connector for that and the screw is way too big for the hole. I will have to drill out the rudder and must use the inner hole on the control arm because the arm is too narrow at the end to drill out the outer hole. Man, they ought to color code these things for us newbies!!!
    Last edited by DaveDude; 07-07-2005 at 09:29 AM.
     

  18.  
    #43
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
    Posts
    3,195
    You can drill out the arms using a 1/16" drill bit or tap them if you can or have to.
    I recently dscovered these locking ball-links from Sullivan, they are much better than the ones used on R/C cars and trucks as they won't pop off easily but by sliding a spring loaded piece back they come right off. http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm
    They have sizes for 2-56 and 4-40 rods. They can be placed at only one end if you still want to use a "Z" bend at the other.
     

  19.  
    #44
    Well, I finally broke down and drove to my nearest decent hobby shop (30 minutes each way)! I found a guy who worked there who makes a lot of custom boats for people and showed him what I had. He thought my setup was ok, but I bought a ball connector for the throttle arm anyway. I would have liked to use one of those nifty Sullivan ball-links as Ron suggested, but unfortunately, I'm a little short on clearance between the throttle arm and the screw on the engine mount and it wouldn't fit. Personally, I'm still not completely satisfied with the throttle linkage, but I do feel better with the ball connector on there.

    The guy at the store also said that he would never run a nitro boat without glassing in the shaft tube. He thought the vibration would separate the brass from the epoxy. Is that acurate advice?
     

  20.  
    #45
    Join Date
    08-08-2002
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi.
    Posts
    3,195
    I've only epoxied on stuffing tube in a boat. I did try a Shoo-Goo type of sealer but when I tore my sons boat down last week I found out that the stuff comes loose after a while. I repaired it using JB Weld hoping that it will hold it. you should have seen if he had a small piece that you could get from him as if you bought a package of it you'd have enough to 'glas the whole boat and then some. I've got a sheet of it around someone but couldn't find it when I needed it. It's a little extra added insurance but it looks like you've got it pretty well mounted. If you find out later that you have to raise the tube then you'd have a lot of fun trying to get it out.
    You asked about a color. Bright colors work best for visibility. White shows every little drop of oil or greasy fingerprint, that's why none of my boats are white but other bright colors aren't a whole lot better.
     

  21. It's Coming Together! 
    #46
    Hello again! I'm here's the latest. It may not sound like much, but the thing's really starting too look great! I cut out the hatch holes in the deck, reinforced them with strips of wood around the opening, epoxied together the cabin/sprayshield, made the radio compartment hatch, aaand decided on the color scheme! Silver deck and blue hull. Unfortunately, I'm still being held up by the lack of a drive dog. I plan to order another one from Rocket City Racing tomorrow. Here's some pics I took tonight. The deck and cabin isn't attached yet, but you get the idea... Thanks to everybody on the forum for their help, you've been great!
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  22.  
    #47
    Join Date
    07-27-2004
    Posts
    1,247
    That is looking awsome. I really like it. The windshield or whatever you call it looks sweet.
     

  23. Getting a little ahead of myself, but why not? 
    #48
    Here's how I want it to look following a few sessions with the spray cans:
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  24.  
    #49
    Nice looking boat!! Thats so tight! I like the sleek design, and how everything comes to gether very very well, nice work man. Also, is that drawing a CAD drawning????? If not, what program did you use to draw that?

    -Garrett
     

  25.  
    #50
    Thanks for the compliments! I WISH I had CAD! I'm sure it would have made planning out the boat much easier, but I just used Adobe Photoshop to make the sketch. All I did was trace over the original photo on a few different layers, color fill them, and then get rid of the picture altogether, leaving the drawing in the foreground.
     

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