Thread: Pro Fisherman ARF

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  1. Pro Fisherman ARF 
    Anyone out there who has run the Aqua Craft Bass Boat OB???? I have recenty got mine going only to find out there is a problem! the OB runs well,but out approx. 25 feet or so,it acts as if it is catching some interference!?? the motor actually sputters! shuts down momentarily,and starts again,turns wildly and regains control,etc....I have ballooned the receiver , balooned the speedcontroller,dried everthing out,checked for bad connections,rerouted wires and antenna,etc. etc. to no avail!I suspect a bad speed controller????? batteries are good ( I was not pleased with this ARF,too many things found unacceptable!,hull has leaks at seam, hatches poorly designed! pours water in ! and the speed controller was just barely held down with a small piece of velcro! as was the receiver and the wiring was routed sloppy! is too heavy at the transome also.....and run time is very short with the 1500mah battery included,no room for two in tandem as I had hoped.....Does the OB need to be broken in in some way????I read where all the r/c electric car motors need break in but no mention of this in the instructions!....I ran it very slow in the stand for a little bit before hitting the water, I figured the bearings and gears needed a little run in to seat properly??? any tips on this model is very much appreciated!!!

    Join Date
    Euclid, OH
    Check the motor end bell for capacitors. There should be three capacitors, one connecting the two motor terminals, and the other two go from a motor terminal to the case. The caps cut down on the noise created by the arcing and sparking of the brushes on the commutator. Here's a "how-to" article on installing noise supression capacitors.

  3. Bass Boat 
    thanks for the reply,I did look at the motor when I removed the cover.It has only two caps????each one from motor terminal to motor case I believe?should there be one between the two terminals???? and if not what value cap.???Radio Shack???

    Join Date
    Euclid, OH
    From the link I posted earlier:
    The capacitors that you want to use for this are ceramic disk capacitors rated for at least 35 V. These can be purchased at Radio Shack. For the capacitor across the motor leads, use a .01 uF and for the other two (2) capacitors, use .047 uF (Micro Farad).

    I have the Profisherman Bass Boat and initially experienced many of the same problems that you are describing. However, over time I have managed to get it running pretty well and am now enjoying it. One of the main problems with this boat is that it tends to take on water and this causes much of the radio glitching you are describing. Once it gets wet inside you have to wait for it to dry out before it will work properly again. It is essential to seal the hatches with tape to stop the water from getting in. Electrical tape works well but will lift the decals. I also stuff paper towelling in the rear hatch to absorb any water that might get in. The boat is very stern heavy with the stock 550 motor. The added weight of a 7-cell battery pack helps this situation as well as trimming the motor in as far as it will go. With this setup it will run smoothly on plane without bouncing around. I find there are less glitching problems when it's running smoothly. Also less water tends to get splashed on the deck and it stays drier inside. Recently I upgraded the stock motor to a 23 turn modified 540 motor. Not only is it faster but the new motor is also lighter so that the weight is now in proper balance. The boat handles a lot better now and also stays drier. I find using new high quality batteries in the transmitter extends its usable range. Hope this helps.

    I had the same problem! with the electrical tape removeable.It started to lift the trim decals!Almost wish I had left them off...did you find anything that would not stick as hard????? and what brand 540 motor did you use and where did you get it??did you have to do any mods or did it bolt right on????I thought of getting the better 1900 mah battery packs too and already using good transmitter batteries(but see no difference)the removebable hatch design suck!!!it almost has to take on water,not a good seal at all! I ballooned the receiver again (as the one from the factory had a hole in it!) and the speed controller)I don't think it will get too hot???I also tilted the OB back and down more to help plaining from factory setting.....
    If I only could find a sealing tape with not much stick! just enough to stay down and keep water out???

    I don't know of a tape like you describe. There are tapes specially designed for sealing boat hatches but I have never tried any. Also I've found that if I don't do a really careful job with the taping then water will find its way in so using a tape without much stick might not be the best. The decals lifting isn't a great thing but having the thing fill up with water every time is worse I think.
    Although the receiver may be ballooned and the speed controller is waterproofed the servo is not. Mine stopped working completely one time when I got water in it but worked again after it had dried out. There is a definite correllation with water in this area and glitching problems.
    The main benefit of the 7-cell pack is to balance the weight better and it is a lot faster as well.
    The motor I'm using now is a 23x2 Team Orion SV2 Formula bushing that I got from Tower Hobbies. It fits without any modifications with the mounting screws that are already in the motor. I had to trim the motor up a bit from where I had it with the stock motor because of the weight difference.
    I have never had a problem with the speed controller getting hot.
    The transmitter's usable range does seem to be limited as other people with this boat have also mentioned this. Could be that the radio equipment included with a RTR model is not of the same quality as a separate radio. However, if you can keep things dry and the boat running smoothly this problem will greatly improve.

    Bet you are right about the quality of the TX. I have one just like it I got with a nitro car a couple years ago and it works great,no problems! I can run it as far as I can see it and have complete control,no glitches!It looks just like this one,just don't have Aqua craft on it? But it could be the receiver also??? lesser quality?I think they have a bunch of them out now and they all look alike and all different prices,so there has to be less quality ones i suspect???I would like to get one of those motors like yours also, i will look it up at tower hobbies....................

    I just looked up that Orion motor at Tower,seems they just discontinued it! the 21 turn that is(rated 25,000rpm) the other one has the same numbers you gave but is rated 24,000 rpm?both are SV2 Formula 23x2 ???which one did you get?and they have a 19 T for the same price,would this be to hot for the esc?????

    I got the 23 turn double. I can't be sure about the 19 turn but I know of someone on another forum who tried a 17 turn. The ESC handled it but the speed was no better than stock and the run time greatly reduced. This was using the stock prop. Another guy reported good results from a 23 turn which is what influenced me to get the one I did. I assume you understand the basic theory of motor specs; how they affect performance and prop selection. It certainly helps if someone has already tried something out though.
    I wouldn't feel that it's essential to replace the stock motor immediately unless you really want to. It actually goes pretty well with the stock motor. With the 23 turn I would estimate that it's about 3-4 mph faster. This is with the stock prop.

    10-4 !I understand and as you say,maybe later on I will change motors to see some improvements? has anyone played with props (pitches and diameters) and is there any other prop that will fit the lower unit??(Octura maybe?)they had a good selection for replacement props on my 1/12 Miss Budweiser,plastic and bronze.... any difference in the Dolphin and Graunper props for outboards??MRP use to make an electric outboard and I believe I had an extra prop somewhere???don't know if the shaft bore is the same though,guess i could make a bushing if needed (K&S tubing!) or redrill it if undersize................Soooooooooooooo many props to select from,hope someone has already found the right one????!!

    The Octura props for 1/8" shafts will fit although the fit is not exact. Nothing else will except props for other Aquacraft models. I have an X430 that I'm going to try out once I've sharpened and balanced it. I know there are people on the forum at offshore electrics that have tried different props on this motor. You might want to try a post there on this topic.

    I bet the prop shaft is METRIC and probably why the 1/8 bore Octura does not fit good???Aquacraft is made you know where????as is almost everything now.......thanks for all the info on this model!I will look at that site and forum time to time,someone will have used something that will fit and make an improvement,sooner or later..................................

    The prop shaft is 3mm threads. I think the 1/8" Octura is a close enough fit. Other people that have tried them say they fit fine. The one I have seems to be a close enough fit although I haven't actually run it on the model yet.
    The people on the other site are using different props on the motor and claim they are a lot better than the stock prop. I'm not sure exactly what props they're using. If I find out I'll let you know.

    The props they've tried are X432 and X632 although I think they're using the motor on other boats besides the bass boat. What works best will depend on the electric motor being used and the boat.

    That is good to know and keep in mind,thanks for the info!...hydros reguire certain props,deep vees certain props as well as monos and the outboards run specific pitches and diameters.(I am aware of all the variables)I guess it is a game of trial and error for now,if anyone finds a different prop for the mono bass boat,maybe they will let us know????

    Join Date
    Put at least a 3300 mah pack in there if you want a good run time anything lower than 2000mah, and comes with the kit, is just a paper weight.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ball Racing
    Put at least a 3300 mah pack in there if you want a good run time anything lower than 2000mah, and comes with the kit, is just a paper weight.
    Only problem is I just bought new charger for NiCad packs and also highest Tower has is 1900MAH in Nicad,3300 is the other type NiMH,much more expensive and requires a special charger for those packs also(over $100 !)just for a charger....Can you use the Nicad charger to charge NiMH packs????I was told you could,only taked Longer????

    Join Date
    I wouldn't use it, they sense the peak voltage cut off rate diferent, and in short it will over heat NiMh batteries.

    You will have to face the fact Nicad is out dated, and now even NiMh is close to out dated with the LiPo batteries.

    Yes you need a nice charger, I have a Duratrax ICE $129.00 charges all types, and up to 10 cells.

    A matched set of say 3,800 MAH IB's or GP3700MAH will give at least double the run time, and 3-6mph at least over a nicad unmatched pack like you have......

    Nice things cost, but they work, and make this hobby a whole lot more fun...


    Is there a less expensive option for a charger that can charge NiMh that you'd recommend?

    Join Date
    Duratrax Piranha 55 bucks.

    I have the "Piranha" charger (A/C and DC) and it does not charge NiAH batteries???????????$37 bucks from Tower.........................

  23. Chargers 
    Join Date
    Davenport Iowa
    Hi everyone
    Tower has two Duratrax peak chargers for under $50.00 ,that will charge NIMH packs.I have the $17.99 one and it rocks. For a little more you can get the IntelliPeak chargers.Most of them are under $75. I also have a MRC Super Brain 959 for $44.99. It also charges NIMH packs.

    Join Date
    Yeah, what he said above,
    The Digital Piranha does it and they have one other, go back to towers site and look.

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