Thread: 55" Dumas Scarab

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  1. 55" Dumas Scarab 
    I posted a picture of this project a while back when I first picked it up. I haven't got much done since then (my wedding and a few other things got in the way!)
    Anyways I was doing a search on here for other scarabs and ran across 2 threads: "Experimenting with a Scarab" and "Changing to surface drive" and in both those threads the comment of moving the prop further back was brought up?! Like I mentioned above, when I first got the boat I asked in a thread about the height of the outdrive on my scarab...and got the "okay" from the replies. So I am assuming the length must be alright or someone would have mentioned it. But to be sure, I'll post pics of this to show again (I measured from the transom to the back of the drive dog and it is 3 1/2") Will that be fine? Also in the pic the trim is all the way down on the outdrive, hence why it isn't level with the bottom of the boat.

    Also attached are a couple other "in progress" pictures of the hatch and the interior work getting installed.

    Note: This is a very side, side project of mine as I don't have all the time (I'd like) to work on it. So progress will be slow.
    Also if anyone is interested in learning or seeing the "body work and painting" process just let me know. As this is my profession (I own a hot rod/custom painting shop) and when I finally get to that stage of the project I'd be more than willing to do a step by step of that process?
    Attached Images

    I sure like the looks of the scarabs and i for one would be very interested in seeing the painting process done by a professional.

    Join Date
    oregon wi
    general rules of thumb(as I have heard them) for surface drives; a) the bottom of the prop hub should be even with lower edge of the transom, b) figure on putting the prop 10% of the boats length aft of the transom(or in this case 5.5"). please note however that these 'rules' are generally applied to allout race boats and might not be thest for all boats. with your boat I don't really see how one could easily move the prop further back...(or whether it is needed), but having the prop too high could give you prob.s hth

  4. changed screen name 
    I just want to inform that I (previously) "paint-boy" will be posting as "pplace" until I can get my verification straightened out.....the reason is explained in my other thread "4-Stroke"

    EDIT: I finally received my e-mail verification and was abe to update my "paint-boy" name. So now I can go back to that original screen name (I feel like a woman who can't make up her mind!)
    Last edited by pplace; 12-27-2006 at 06:19 PM.

  5. build progress 
    Well I was able to work a bit more on my project today and was able to get a few things accomplished.

    While fitting the interior to the removable frame I noticed the fiberglass was "warped" and didn't fit very well. The vertical for the dash was not a 90 degree angle (and that bugged me) so I ground the underside so it was just barely holding together, then I clamped two 90 degree braces on the interior side and fiberglassed the bottom side for strength again.
    Also the interior section was too short to fit the opening nicely. I was able to pull it to fit the opening, but I didn't want to put any pre stress on the framework. So as you can see in the one picture I cut the floor in half and lengthened it about 3/8". Then I went along and fiberglassed the whole interior from the bottom and reinforced the lengthened area. I will probably clean up this glassing later to look a bit better. (Even tho it will hardly ever get looked at....things like that just bug me)
    I cut the openings for air to exhaust in the rear engine covers also. I am contemplating if I want or need to cut an opening for more air to enter for the engine?? (Suggestions??) I'm still unsure of what engine or engines I will be running. But I thought I could cut out the oppening to make it look like a scale cuddy opening?
    Lastly I trimmed and sanded the radar arch. No major work here just some more itchy grinding of fiberglass.

    Since I have a long weekend I will continue working on this thru Monday (Hopefully) I plan on getting the top of the removable interior and the boat deck fitting flush (the fiberglass is quite uneven at the moment) and was wondering if anyone is curious about minor body work, filler work like that? If so I can try and take a few pictures of that progress for anyone? Just let me know. Sorry for the long post
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    Do you know what yr. and length that Scarab is a replica of? It looks alot like the '84, 38' Scarab of Miami Vice fame.

    You got it!!
    But trust me I will not be going with the "Vice" paint on it. As good as it looks.....not too original of an idea tho. Plus like mentioned above I own a hot rod/custom paint shop. So I'll figure something special up when the time comes.

    Don't rule it out! The paint job on the 38' "Vice" Scarab was super nice! I'd love to have that hull in the 25"-30" range to make into a FE!

    You obviously work in a paint & body shop (hense the handle huh?) Your project is really turning out. I'd like to see something insane but fair to scale on your paint job. Can't wait to see it.

  10. Sunday progress 
    DD yeah I'm trying to find some nice off shore boats for some scale paint schemes to get some ideas from. But thats a ways off in the future to be thinking of right now!

    Today I didn't get too much done really but thought I would share anyways. The stock seat in the dumas kit had both front seats molded together as one. Which isn't the way they are or the way I wanted it. So in the first pic EDIT: (The pictures aren't in the order I attached them. Is there a way to know the order they will show in?) They are all jumbled up in a random order?? is the molded plastic after I have already split it in two pieces.

    Second picture shows a quick wooden framework I made for each seat for the structure

    The last two pictures are of one seat all molded and looking pretty nice. The second one I wasn't able to finish. As I didn't have anymore screws (legs for the seats) to finish and nobody was open on the holiday weekend here. Oh well. I also did some filler work on the floor and the engine covers.

    Gotta get going for New Years! Everyone have a good one!
    Attached Images

    Check out, . Tons of pics there.

  12. paint idea 
    Today I worked a bit on getting the cockpit and the deck fitting flush together (no pictures) nothing exciting to see. And in between I did a quick sketch of a possible paint idea. This is not set in stone I may change it I may not but I kinda like it so far. The sketch is only a reference for me if I paint it. I can see how it will all layout and fit on the boat. I would add more details and airbrushed shadows, shadings, textures, etc. stuff that doesn't need to be on the sketch
    I traced the side of the boat so I had a full scale outline of the boat to design a paint scheme in. The picture of the boat with the orage line around the side is the area I traced. Even as big as the boat is, there really isn't much room for painting. I plan on painting the bottom of the boat white. And I also traced the deck of the boat...but haven't drawn anything up for that yet.
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    You've got some talent man. We will be in touch when my next build comes up. You'll be an asset.

    Back at it again for the weekend. Kinda asshamed at the lack of accomplishment today. But that's the punishment for working on the project at my business instead of in my workshop at home. (People stopping by to visit, customers stopping in, etc.) Oh well!

    But I did start on getting the hull straight.

    I start by block sanding the surface down with 80 grit paper (I stopped to take a picture at this point to show were the low spots were, obviously the shiny spots on the sanded side of the hull bottom.) After the picture I sanded more aggressivley, and stopped when I started to evenly go thru the gel coat. At this point sanding more won't help. The fiberglass is obviously harder than the gel coat, and if you kept sanding much more, the gel coat will tend to sand away faster than the fiberglass. Which will leave you with high and low spots (the fiberglass stays the same "height" and the gel coat will sand away unevenly) thus defeating the purpose of blocking down the gel coat. Hope that makes sense??

    After I have the surface blocked down as far as I can with the gel coat alone, I go ahead and sand any low spots (shiny) with 80 grit for proper adhesion of the filler.

    I put a layer of body filler over the areas that needed it, then blocked the filler down evenly with 80 grit again. Make sure to use the appropriate size and style of sanding block for the job. (The longer the block the better) I used about 6 or 7 different blocks doing just that half of the boat. If you sand evenly, you can work the filler down straight. When all the edges are feather-edged (blended into surounding surface) you are finished. (Only use the flat surface of the block, don't tilt your block just to get the corner in a spot to sand it...if its not getting sanded and its supposed's still a low spot, fill it more) This is the point of the other attached photo.

    I have yet to, but before I prime I'll sand over the entire boat with 150 grit again. (Will show example and explain more when I prime)

    (Depending on your brand, grade, quality of filler will determine the grit of paper to use. I could talk a whole bunch about different fillers for different uses but won't at this moment) I can get away with 80 grit (which is considered fine grit for filler work) because I used a higher quality filler (for the ease of sanding) Other wise I would have "knocked" the surface of the filler down with 36 grit paper (yeah it's like sanding with rocks!haha) One problem most people have when learning to do body work is using too fine of sandpaper for the job. The coarser the paper obviously the more it will "cut" the finer the paper the less it will "cut". Think of it this way. (I'll explain an example to the extreme "unrealistic" way) Take a really rough surface like fiberglass with no gel coat and if you were to sand it with 2000 grit the sand paper will want to "ride" over "hills" on the surface, but if you were to sand that same fiberglass with 36 grit, the coarser paper will "cut" the tops of the "hills" off bringing that much closer to the "valleys".

    Sorry if I over explain anything here (but I'm trying to help show this for a total beginner to learn)
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    Last edited by paint-boy; 01-07-2007 at 12:46 AM.

    Awesome build Paint- boy thanks for taking the time to explain the process to us painting newbies!

  16. 1-7-07 progress 
    edmkills: Thanks! Also not a problem, I hope that this information will help some people in the future with their own projects.

    Today I kept plugging away on the filler work on the hull. I'll get the rest of the boat to the point of the pictures I posted on 1-6-06 of the filler "how to" I'll use the same steps and techniques for the other half the bottom, the transom and the deck also. Fiberglass by naure is wavy and tends to need a lot of attention to get it to look good.

    I was able to get the interior section in primer today. I took a couple pics to show how that looks.
    The primer I am using is a premium grade automotive 2K urethane primer (Which means I mix a hardner with the primer). I have on my paint mixing system seven primary colors of the primer: gray, white, black, blue, green, yellow, red, of which I can use any single color, or add them together to get any colored primer I'd like. Also this primer holds its "gloss" after it dries which helps show the imperfections in the surface. In the pictures if you look in the reflections of the lights you can see "orange peel" on the surface. You don't need a nice smooth finished surface on your primer (It's more important to worry about coverage and getting in all the nooks and crannys.)

    I like to do about 3 coats of primer each session. After each session, the block sanding continues, progressivly getting finer and finer grit paper. I will usually start again with 150 grit paper, sand and fill any imperfections left. Prime 3 coats again, block sand with 240 grit. Prime 3 coats, block over a bit with 320 grit....if all is looking good finish off that blocking session with 400 grit. Then you are ready for paint (That's another lesson another day...down the road)

    Usually I like to select a similar colored primer to the finished paint. As this will help any future scratches or chips that go thru the paint. But I had to go with white primer for a couple reasons:
    1. I plan on doing some graphics on the boat, so it will not be one "main" color.
    2. But the color I will be using the most of probably will be yellow (easy to see on the lake) so I want a nice light base for the future color or colors to cover over. Example: I wouldn't want a black primer and then try to get the yellow to cover over the black.

    Lastly I added a picture or two of the seat pedestals I made. They are simply brake line cut to the correct lenght with a simple little flare on the end for an added touch.
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    What kind (size) of engine are you going to put in it? Is it going to be a insane white knuckler?

    Join Date
    Port Saint Lucie , Florida
    I dont get it. You make all this scale stuff, and then you have a single drive on a twin engine boat .....????

    Kirker: I'm not 100% on engine choice yet. But am pretty sure it'll end up a .90 sized 2 stroke (not sure of brand yet tho)

    Piranha_Boats: Yeah I know what you mean. But a couple reasons behind that are: As I mentioned before I bought the boat kit (new in box) with the One AMPS outdrive with it already on e-bay. I considered the outdrive a nice "extra" with the purchase. I'm sure if I searched around I could find another matching AMPS drive for the boat. But for the cost it isn't necessary to me. The one scale outdrive is two notches better than a normal strut and rudder setup (Scale wise to me) And one notch better than a dual strut and rudder combo (Again scale wise to me) And I certainly wasn't going to buy two brand new outdrives for this boat. (I have a family and more important things to spend money on) As for "all this scale stuff" as you say?.....I haven't gone too crazy from the kit?? I only split the front seat in half? Otherwise I've done just a normal build on the boat? So again long story short.....I would have loved to make a twin outdrive on this....but can't justify the money this time. (Maybe next boat!!)

  20. Outdrive? 
    Oh GRRRRR.....Piranha_Boats: Now you got me thinking more and more about this single outdrive!!!haha I'm working on the boat right now and was planning the exhaust out the transom (scale wise 4 exits) and am now contemplating will the 4 exits looks silly with one outdrive? Or should I switch to only 2 exhaust exits?

    And lastly just to check another crazy option.....does anybody know the possibility or whereabouts of a (good) matching AMPS outdrive to the one I already have??

    Join Date
    Akron Ohio USA
    I have with a G26 with Piranha boats outdrive runs great.
    How do you post pictures
    Last edited by bad_boy2085; 01-14-2007 at 12:15 PM.

    Join Date
    Lombard, IL
    Model gas has a link to MHZusa they have some neat scale drives.

    I think Prianha is right, two outdrives. You obviously have the skills. A insanely over powered twin screw! Sonny and Rico wouldn't want it any other way! Besides, there's nothing saying you HAVE to floor it! hehe

  24. Weekends work.......part 1 
    Hey All!

    Just got home from working on the scarab again.

    I'll break this up into a couple posts....for each "step" I worked on. Also so I can upload some more pictures.

    I finished roughing out the body work on the boat. I went a bit overboard and pretty much went over every square inch of the boat with a sanding block and filler! So the first set of pictures are of the finished body work just before primer (that is the next post's subject)

    Attached Images

  25. Weekends work.......part 2 
    Part 2 of weekend progress.

    Here is the boat in the white primer again (for information about the primer etc. refer to post #16) Again like mentioned in that post, this is just the first coat of many priming sessions. I will now continue to block sand and prime untill I get down to 400 grit paper.

    Here are a few pictures of the boat sitting together
    Attached Images
    Last edited by paint-boy; 01-14-2007 at 06:11 PM.

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