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Thread: 55" Dumas Scarab

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  1.  
    #51
    Blending a skeg in will be cake for you. I'm trying to think of how the seals are in there. Maybe you could remove everything and add to it by building up a few weld lines and then shaping like you need?
     

  2. progress update 
    #52
    Hello,

    Finally back to work on the scarab again!! It's nice to have a weekend for myself again.

    Today I did A LOT of thinking and measuring and contemplating on where the dual outdrives should be mounted. I studied a couple pictures of the full size scarab 38 for reference also. I wanted to directly center them behind each "engine cover vent" but a couple people I went to for "guidance" said the closer the drives are together the better. So I kinda went a happy medium and moved them together a bit (I'm sure not as much as I should have...but looks mean a bunch to me also) I think they ended up 3 1/2" apart center to center. I also moved the drives up 3/8"....but the prop shaft centers are now below the hull bottom (to get them surface drive I would have needed to move another 5/8" up) and I wasn't going to do that.

    I also drilled and mouted the exhaust exits (referenced off full scale picture)

    Lastly I made a plywood filler piece for the old drive hole in the transom and put a couple layers of fiberglass to level the old hole out. (I will also reinforce the plywood filler from inside.
    Attached Images
     

  3. Skag and water outlet 
    #53
    Hello again,

    Today I worked on making the skag of my new outdrive match the existing drive I had. I tested a few methods out yesterday (on the junk outdrive) and came upon a methond that worked great.

    Like I've mentioned in some previous posts, I own a hotrod / custom car shop. So I went thru some of my supplies and came across some "structural metal adhesive" It's used in many fields for bonding metal together. For example in the auto repair industry it isn't uncommon to use this glue for bonding sheetmetal panels onto the vehicle. (Like a boxside onto a pickup and such) So like I mentioned I did a test on the junk outdrive and glued a piece of aluminum to it...ground it to shape....and couldn't bend or break it off! So good enough test for me. So see for yourself in the first picture.....which one did I make??!?!

    The second and third pictures are of the water outlets I made. I took a brass tube the same size as the water pickup on the drives. Put a few bends on it for what I needed. Then I drilled an angled hole in each side of the boat (near the rear) and then epoxied the tube from the inside. After they dried I ground and filed them flush, put a skim coat of filler over and ta-da! I think coming out at an angle looks rather nice in my opinion.

    I'm running out of work to do (minus the mechanics of the boat) pretty soon I'll have to get some paint on this thing!
    Attached Images
     

  4.  
    #54
    Join Date
    01-12-2007
    Location
    Lombard, IL
    Posts
    65
    Very Nice work, You have done a great job it looks scale to me, I spend every waking minute thinking about boats and reading about them, NICE!!!
     

  5.  
    #55
    thank you for the compliment. I really enjoy posting my progress on here for everyone to follow along with. And I really appreciate the comments, input, suggestions, etc. that people post. It makes taking the time to document and post this process that much better.

    Thanks again
     

  6. trim tabs 
    #56
    I gotta ask for your guy's help again on my project. I'm contemplating the addition of trim tabs on the boat now. I am unsure of the need for tabs beings as the outdrives will have power trim ability. I could always wait and add tabs later if I need. Do you think I'll need them?

    The full size scarab I am using for reference has as set. (I will attach a pic of it) I can find "scale" looking tabs on mhz...but you know the story there$$$$$$ So I was wondering if anyone knew of any similar tabs that are resonable $ wise, and fit the "looks" department also?

    Thanks
    Attached Images
     

  7.  
    #57
    I would run it first. If you have the equipment fabricate them... should be pretty easy with your skill. I will keep my eyes open for some tabs for you as I am shopping for some hardware myself. Great build!
     

  8.  
    #58
    Paintboy check out http://www.aeromarinerc.com/ their trim tabs look similar.
     

  9.  
    #59
    Yeah but those are the cheap plastic. They are effective as they've been around forever. Though they do look more scale than the MTC or MHZ no doubt.
     

  10.  
    #60
    edmkills: Thanks for the link to the tabs. I'll keep those in the back of my mind. And it seems best to wait till after I run the boat to see if they are really needed.

    NOW!!! I'm sorry to bring this subject back up again. But I'm now on the hunt for a pair of engines for this project. Like I've mentioned many times in this thread, I'd really like to end up with a pair of 4-strokes in this boat. (Around a .60 size each) Does anyone know of any companies that have something that will work...or that can be watercooled? I know that OS made a .40 and a.60 marine 4-stroke back in the 80's. But I'd prefer a pair of new engines.

    Worst come to worst could I take an airplane engine, switch it to a belt start flywheel, and wrap the head with tube and run the water thru that? (This would be a last resort) Any ideas and suggestions??

    Lastly I know the 4's run lower revs than the 2's, how can I make up for this...prop size, pitch, etc??

    Thanks
     

  11.  
    #61
    Join Date
    10-11-2005
    Location
    Akron Ohio USA
    Posts
    55
    No airplane engines please....Keep looking around..
    OPS 67 or 80..
    I like gas..Take your time
     

  12.  
    #62
    I just have to ask...so I understand: Why no airplane engines.....what other differences are there?

    And by saying OPS .67 or .80 those are 2 strokes....I really don't want a 2 stroke.

    As for gas.....they won't fit under my interior
     

  13.  
    #63
    Join Date
    07-21-2004
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    2,361
    see if you can get you hands on a pair of engines out of these cars-
    http://www.mecoa.com/compagnucci/index.htm
     

  14. No more blah white...... 
    #64
    I didn't think I was going to post any more pictures of the boat until I started the painting process. But today I got the complete boat in primer again, this time I decided to do the majority of it with yellow (refer back to my possible paint scheme earlier in the thread) and you'll see that yellow will be the "main" color in the scheme. I set it all backtogether and figured I'd update if anyone was curious on the progress. Honestly I got tired of looking at an all white boat....so I needed some color this round of primer (This is just primer)

    I am unsure of how I am going to do the dash / cockpit area. I have decals for the gauges (which are black) so I don't want to paint the dash black which will make the gauges disappear. I figured I will probably end up bringing the graphics on the top of the bow thru the top of the dash also...to tie it all together. (The black cockpit detail I made....unsure of how to paint that yet)

    Here are some pics....I hope you enjoy! It's starting to almost look like something now (still plain...but 1 step better)
    Attached Images
     

  15. Started Painting 
    #65
    Hey everyone,

    It's been forever since I last posted any progress on my build. I've been real busy at work (which is great) and anyone from Minnesota knows we've been hit 2 weeks in a row with major snow. So that always seems to slow stuff down.

    Anyways back to the boat: I have been working on it since I last posted the pics of it in yellow primer. I painted the bottom in a pearl white, and also painted the top in a pearl yellow then clear coated that for a base to start the custom painting on. I didn't take pictures of all (actually hardly any of the steps) they are all basically the same (just a different color and design) I did airbrush highlights and low lights in most of the graphics (which give it a 3-D look) but obviously this is hard to show in pictures (being it's rather small)
    I also airbrushed "drop shadows" under the graphics to also help with the overall depth of the paintwork.

    The first picture is one set of graphics masked off and with the airbrushing on it (all that masking for one little graphic!haha)

    The second picture is with the masking removed (as you can see I already had a couple other colors started at that time)

    The next couple pictures are of the mostly completed paintwork before applying clear coat. You'll also notice I now added the orange fade on the front of the boat.

    And the last picture is after the clear coat. From here my next step is to sand the clear coat flat (the graphics leave paint edges you have to level out) After that is finished I will polish the boat and then apply hand pin striping around each different graphic. This will obviously give it a nice finished look, and make each one "pop out" more. (it really looks unfinished without the stripes right now)

    Also if anyone is curious and remembers the "sketch" I did of the paint work (refer back to post #12 to see the similarities)

    P.S. Sorry about the poor lighting on the pictures (the paint booth is so bright it's hard to take nice pictures......also the pictures really make my booth look dirty) Well worse than it appears in person!haha I guess add that to my list of things to do now.
    Attached Images
     

  16.  
    #66
    Join Date
    01-12-2007
    Location
    Lombard, IL
    Posts
    65
    WOW :wow: :wow:
     

  17.  
    #67
    Join Date
    07-21-2004
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    2,361
    love it... i can't wait to see it running.
     

  18.  
    #68
    Join Date
    10-11-2005
    Location
    Akron Ohio USA
    Posts
    55
    Looks sweet.....I'm in the market for another one...
     

  19.  
    #69
    Speechless.
     

  20.  
    #70
    Paint-boy what do you use to do your drop shadows and low lights with? I usually use black base a little over reduced but sometimes it seems that it turns out a little grainy, almost a stippling effect which would indicate to me it is still too thick. Just thought I would pick another painters brain thanks.


    Jeff
     

  21.  
    #71
    Jeff,

    You are correct about over reducing the toners for highlights and such. Normally that will work fine.

    I usually mix my toner 1 : 1 (Example 1 ounce paint - 1 ounce stabilizer / reducer) which is considered mixing it "normal"....so on top of that I take a different reducer and reduce accordingly.... usually add another 3/4 ounce. I prefer to have to do several coats to get the desired effect...rather than too much at one time. (It honestly depends on the toner color tho. Whites are really coarse and take more reducing) (I use Martin Senour Paints 95% of the time if you are wondering)

    BUT:

    On the drop shadows I also tend to get the "grain" like you mentioned. So in addition to the above I also add a clear binder (it's pretty much translucent paint) Totally different than clear coat....it helps give the color some "body" while still making it "thinner" Follow?? Kinda hard to explain sorry.

    Later when I get this painting closer to finished I'll post some closer shots of the graphics and airbrushing...but I didn't spend a killer amount of time on this boat (to be honest if it was a paying customer I'd do it that "one notch" better....but I really want to get the painting finished on this boat) My wife is getting upset that I live at work during the week...and even more on the weekends!haha
    Last edited by paint-boy; 03-06-2007 at 05:07 PM.
     

  22.  
    #72
    Thanks man that was going to be my next try. Dont be sorry I know exactly what you're talking about with the clear base, I work for a body shop supply house. PPG calls it DBC500 and HOK is SG100.


    Jeff
     

  23.  
    #73
    It must be the weekend again, as I find myself working on the scarab again! I started hand striping around each graphic today (I didn't finish around the green "half moons" or the red "swoosh"...yes that's the technical name for it!haha) But I did get everything else finished. It really helped make the graphics "stand out" and finishes it off nicely I think. I took an overall pic of it...and also a kinda close up of the deck, so you can see the stripes better.

    Thank you to eveyone for the compliments after the last pictures I posted of it painted. I'm glad everyone seems to like it.....it makes the time and effort all worth it!
    Attached Images
     

  24.  
    #74
    Looks killer man, I always find it amazing how outlining grapics with pinstriping really makes them jump. I see you use one-shot for the striping , do you put yours under or over the clear? Only reason I asked is the fellow that taught me always told me one-shot had a tendecy to "move" on you when it was cleared over.
     

  25.  
    #75
    Thanks for the comments. Yeah it is amazing how the little things "tie" a whole paint job together. Which is the reason when I'm doing a job for a customer I'd prefer they don't see the project untill it's completely done. Most people that don't do painting can't visualize the end product and think.... "oh that will never look right"....but when they see it finished then they understand.

    I wasn't going to post any progress shots of the painting here until it was finished, but then I thought to myself....this is the reason I initially started this post: To show people the body work / painting process. (Which I hope this helps people out?)

    As for the question about clearing over the stripes or not. I do it either way. It depends on what the customer wants, or on the situation. (example: On a vehicle that will get washed and polished a lot, then I prefer to "bury" the stripe under the clear. Because the striping will eventually wear off. But on a project like this that won't get pampered that much...It would take for ever to wear the stripe off)

    Also you mentioned about the one-shot "moving" under the clear. It will "alligator" if you clear over uncatalized one-shot. So when I clear over one-shot I'll add a bit of the clear hardner I am using. Also I will let the striping dry a good day or so before clearing over.
     

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