Notices
 

Thread: Converting RC10T3 to SC10

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 51 to 73 of 73
  1.  
    #51
    Thanks . You and I are the only ones so far that have completed the conversion.There are over 3000 hits on this thread so maybe some others will surface. I'm going to take some video and post it soon as get some time.The body came with the SC10 sticker kit and I had my T3 stickers that I never used. I'm happy with it. I will do the SC10 with the same paint scheme. I want to try and come up with a way to extend the front bumper. Maybe an extension for the shock tower and front nose plate.
    Attached Images
     

  2.  
    #52
    I was able to extend the front bumper using more of the Tamiya splice connectors to extend the bolts that go to the shock tower and drilled new holes in the skid plate.
    Attached Images
     

  3.  
    #53
    Join Date
    11-12-2009
    Location
    North Hollywood
    Posts
    7
    Hey guys, a buddy of mine just gave me a RC10T...Im actually a little confused with what it is since the guys at the Hobby shop gave different opinions. One sayin its a T and the other saying its a T2. Anyways I got the girl running, and boy is it running nice. I'm sure she has more potential behind it but I'll worry about that when I get some cash.

    The only thing shes missing is a body and I want to convert her to a SC body. My question is, is there much to it? I can see from the pics it really aint to much, other than mounting the body. But will my stock wheels and everything work fine?
     

  4.  
    #54
    If its a 10T you can do what we did with reversing the front arms to gain some extra length. The front nose plate should have two mounting locations, make sure its set up for long wheel base. There are some 10T to SC conversions out there that were done very well by cutting the chassis in half and welding in a 1" or 1.25" section from another 10t to make up the length. I am going to do this with a GT chassis. The SCT3 I did came out pretty good but its still a tad shorter than my SC10. The front axles for the 10T will work with SC10 wheels the rear axles may work if you have the smaller diameter axles. If not use the 10GT axles or CVDs.
    Go back through this thred there is alot of info.
    Good luck!
     

  5.  
    #55
    Join Date
    11-12-2009
    Location
    North Hollywood
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by 73cuda2 View Post
    If its a 10T you can do what we did with reversing the front arms to gain some extra length. The front nose plate should have two mounting locations, make sure its set up for long wheel base. There are some 10T to SC conversions out there that were done very well by cutting the chassis in half and welding in a 1" or 1.25" section from another 10t to make up the length. I am going to do this with a GT chassis. The SCT3 I did came out pretty good but its still a tad shorter than my SC10. The front axles for the 10T will work with SC10 wheels the rear axles may work if you have the smaller diameter axles. If not use the 10GT axles or CVDs.
    Go back through this thred there is alot of info.
    Good luck!
    Thanks a lot for the help. I'll take a look at the arms and see what I can do. As for cutting and welding, thats what Im actually trying to stay away from. I dont have a welder for aluminum...(tig) and I dont have another chassis. I'm actually going this way for more of a cosmetic thing. I'm not really even sure on what chassis I have...heres a pic and hopefully you can help me out.




     

  6.  
    #56
    It looks like a 10T to me. Post more pics as you move along.
    Its a fun project and a good way to recycle your stuff.
     

  7.  
    #57
    Join Date
    11-12-2009
    Location
    North Hollywood
    Posts
    7
    Thanks for the reassurance, and I'll definitely get some pictures up. I cant wait to fit an SC10 body on there.

    Although I wish there were Tacoma bodies so I could match my truck.
     

  8.  
    #58
    Join Date
    11-12-2009
    Location
    North Hollywood
    Posts
    7
    Looks like I got my hands tied up with other problems now...shreadded the clutch hub on both sides...inner and outer.
     

  9. SCT3 build help 
    #59
    Quote Originally Posted by Vmax911 View Post
    I got the front SC10 bumper and body mount to fit on the T3. The rear ones are goingto be more of a challenge since they are integrated into the gearbox on the SC10.
    Thanks for starting this build man. I have been thinking about doing this for a while now.

    So far I swapped the front a-arms forward. and moved the turnbuckles to the front of the shock tower. Does the bottom turnbuckle rub on the bolt for the top turnbuckle. The one you had to swap to the front of the shock tower. Mines does alot,have you found a way to counter this? It binds really bad when the steering is in full turn. I thought about putting spacers in to move the bolt forward. That way it would move the part that is catching on the turnbuckle away just enough so it would clear it while in full turn.Also can you either explain or post a top view picture of how you mounted the front body post. It looks like or what I can figure that you screwed the SC10 front bumper into the spot where the T3's bumper goes? And then the post post mounts to that?

    And looks like on the back you screwed the SC10 shock tower into the T3's tower? Did you have to drill new holes or did you screw the SC10's shock tower into the T3's shock tower? The picture looks like you screwed it into the adjustment holes for the suspension. I saw where you had to put holes into the top of the SC10's rear bumper so it would fit. Do you think the bumper will hold up to a rear end collision?


    Sorry for all the questions. I am really excited about this build. I am going to be buying the Front bumper,front and rear body posts,the rear bumper,Shock tower,and the mudflaps today. Is there anything else I am forgeting? I will post pictures as the build continues. Thanks man.
     

  10.  
    #60
    Amazing, how much in parts?
     

  11.  
    #61
    Hi guys....ok iam also in need of a little help....in fact my sons model is a Thunder Tiger Phoenix ST AT-10es, now from what i've seen its the exactly the same as the Team Associated RC10T3, after seeing this thread my congrats go to Vmax911 & 73cuda2 and anyone else who did the conversion, i went to my local model car shop with the chassis and wheels and there on the podium was a Traxxas and SC10, putting my chassis over the top of the two cars they are same width, the length as you know was shorter, i went over to the counter and he looked at the chassis and he said its not possible , its always the same response when you want to convert somthing and that gets on my ****..lol..cos i think converting and modding is RC modeling, not going out to buy a RTR car or truck, wats the point if its already built..lol..anyway he looked closer and said Proline TeamA wheels with bearings will work but thats all...hah so i got home an did the reversing of the front suspension unit, now its longer like Vmax911 & 73cuda2 did, i found on ebay a front & rear bumper kit complete with body struts, is this easy to fit ? is it worth it..? the SC10 costs almost 300 euros here that i dont have, the bumper kit is 16dollars, wheels 10euros x2 and 20euros for tires x2...then just a body...guys if you got some more photos showing more closely how you added your parts it would help a lot...cheers i will post proper photos soon.
    Attached Images
     

  12. Talking  
    #62
    Ok guys..looks like no one visits this thread anymore..but here is my updates on my sons Thunder Tiger (RC10T3) for anyone interested...for 16$ i bought front & rear bumpers complete with shock towers & bolts from Ebay.
    Time to mod = reversed front arms,c-hubs,turnbuckle supports, added a Tamiya spacer at base SCREW of front shocks to stop rubbing of shocks at turnbuckles, reverse complete...easy 20mins
    mY REAL SC10 just arrived...its huge...plus still wheel base needs to be lengthened by 4mm or so...but ive almost finished the truck,fitted the body and its looks awesome..wheelbase does'nt hinder body thought i will make changes later...oh i bought my SC10 with extra wheels & old extra body this is why i went a head with the mod
    Ok switched back shocks from back of tower to the front of tower, drilled holes little more larger on the SC10 tower with 3.0drill, cut the tower just under the mold mark, fitted tower, used Tamiya large spacers from a shocks parts tree& back bumper complete, 1h ..easy..more photos coming....
    Attached Images
     

  13.  
    #63
    ok now front tower & bumper (for me a bit more of a challenge) made my own mod for this tower which will make the bumper stick out a more true to scale with the SC10 using that rubber tubing shock mod like forum under SC10 posted by ABspeed, THE DIP STICK JIMMY thanx 73cuda2
    Remove shocks,nuts & screws don't throw anything, replace these two screws with longer 3/4 threaded hex bolts of same dia,sorry no pic of bolts but there standard 3cm long not including head use longer if you can, these were all i had, now find & cut two carbon tubes inner dia same as screw or slightly larger, lenght about 1cm long not longer, fit these between original front tower and SC10 on the shock hex bolts, cut out the red spaces on the SC10 tower (look photo)this will allow shocks to move without rubbing, screw tower upto the carbon rods you made..then refit the shocks, then fit the original shocks screws (need to be longer by 3-4mm) in the body brace bar and attach that with the plastic original hex type large nuts (these need to be like alu servo saver post but this was all i had ) screw the nuts all the way then screw the brace bar to the shocks making sure to only screw half way into the large nuts..
    Attached Images
     

  14.  
    #64
    there you have it almost complete....but before i even fitted the body brace bar i check out how the body fits...check these photos out, the back fits snug...the hole body fits perfect..
    Attached Images
     

  15.  
    #65
    ok thats about it....i fitted the body brace bar then fitted the bumper with two very long 3/4threaded hex bolts length of 3.5cm then used some rubber tubing like fuel tube, cut it to the length of the space between the tower and bumper, undo the bolts again and slip the tube over those hex bolts, next thing to do is two holes in the tiny front skid pan and attach with two countersunk screws & two nuts ...(not done that yet..although its last thing left)....not sure how long this took as playing with photos at the same time and writing this mod for you guys... all the tools i used are in the photo except for a dremel,hacksaw & a file.

    And she finally is finished, WOW she looks like an SC10...really...she looks awesome...a new car for my son...he will be blown away when he see's this tonight....an impossible made possible..haha not an SC10 but it sure is a Shortcourse Truck now.
    Goodluck you guys with the modification...no running time yet i must just look at the rear shocks as the springs touch the wheels...i will keep you posted on that..but it looks easy to fix...dead easy.

    Thanx again to the guys who made this possible sebtown, Vmax911, 73cuda2 and any others i missed
    Attached Images
     

  16.  
    #66
    Good Job! Enjoy it. I started to make a SC10 GT out of my old gas truck but got side tracked with other projects.Maybe your son will be the next AE pro driver.
     

  17.  
    #67
    yo.. thanx m8...i did get a few headaches when doing this mod but only cos it was midnight...
    make an SC10 GT out of your old gas truck..that will be interesting...yea i know wat u mean sidetracked with other projects, i did build a large scale GraveDigger from Clodbuster axals and a tube chassis that i soldered all myself, then got side tracked with this project..
     

  18.  
    #68
    ok got some update's for you all...this is to mod the back bumper so its much more stronger, you can pick the car up from the back bumper with this mod..this is wat i came up with....you will need =
    packet of Traxxas rod ends part number #1942 contents are(rodends 16 long, 4 short,hollow ball connectors,ball screws 2) you need 2 short rod ends and 2 hollow ball's, 2 small thin nut (i think its 2.5mm)i used old Clodbuster thin gold nuts from its ball end connectors but its really standard stuff, also need 12mm long(no longer) of a 2.5mm threaded bar, a very short bolt countersunkscrew type 12mm long and some fuel tube thats a nice tight fit over this bar (same bolts for your shock & body brace).
    cut threaded bar 12mm long,(tip..thread a nut onto the piece u need and unscrew it at the end you cut from), thread this into one rod end using two nuts locked together at the end enabling you to screw the threaded bar into rod end, screw on other rod end leaving 1.5-2.0mm gap.
    Attached Images
     

  19.  
    #69
    (remove motor)Take the gold nut and place it with a finger behind the heat plate where the motor goes, you will see where 2 parts of the heatplate join with 2 screws already in place, (look at photo) u see 2 air vents left & right,place nut at back & rest it on the join,now slid it left so it over laps half the airvent and you can see the hole in the nut...now mark the centre in between those airvents, use a long woodscrew & tap a point & drill a 3.0mm hole, attach your new made mod to the bumper brace bar at top with two 5mm long cut tubes(very tight fit) then pull down bumper slightly and attach other end to heatplate using some model loctite in the nut..job done.

    Now your highly modded
     

  20.  
    #70
    doh forgot photo...
    fitting the bolt & fuel tube into the bumper brace is tedious but keep at it.
    Attached Images
     

  21.  
    #71

    ok.. hope all the info & photos helps all of you out there....ive enjoyed this challenge very much and my son can't believe his eyes at the size of it...his buggy body is not even half the size of this large SC10 Truck

    oh last mod for now...front body brace bar...look at photo...use some threaded bar again and thread this into the original middle hole on the brace bar, thread this all the way into the shock tower, cut & lock with nut as you wish but not cut too short..
    Now the buggy is a ShortCourse Truck except front bumper...this i am working on...i can say that a GPM front bumper with its skid plate will fit with a little drilling(but i need this for my real SC10truck) so my son must use the original SC10 front bumper...will keep you all posted L8trs
    Attached Images
     

  22.  
    #72
    Join Date
    03-06-2016
    Location
    Petoskey Michigan USA
    Posts
    1
    Thanks for the good info. Just getting back into the hobby and decided to turn my old rc10 t3 into a trophy truck. Turned out wellimage.jpg
     

  23.  
    #73
    Join Date
    08-26-2016
    Location
    Jerusalem, OH
    Posts
    1
    Wow, glad I found this. I just found my old T3/XXXT hybird I made. It uses XXXT a arms, with the fronts reversed shortly after the T3 came out. I originally turned the front a arms around on my RC10T to make it more like the stealth cars. Have home made shock towers and other misc parts on it. I built it before the T4 came out because the T3 was narrower than the XXXT. It was very competitive with the XXXT and T4. I will get some pictures of it and post, and try this conversion this winter. Been out of RC for 12 years, just getting back in.
     

Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •